Debate erupted here on the Royal Hats Blog earlier this year over Queen Máxima’s new hat style (a turban pillbox combo). We recently looked at turbans and today, we explore the pillbox.
History: Pillbox hats have long been associated with military uniforms, often worn with a chin strap in this capacity. They date back as late as the Roman Empire, when they were known as the pilleus or “Pannonian cap” and were worn by Roman soldiers.The pillbox was thrust into fashion spotlight in 1960 when US First Lady Jackie Kennedy chose one to wear to her husband’s presidential inauguration. They have been consistently worn by royals since then.
Characteristics: No brim, a flat crown and straight, upright sides.
Royals Associated with this Hat Style: Everyone!
Classic Royal Pillboxes:
Duchess of Kent, 1960s; Princess Diana, May 1, 1986, Queen Paola, Oct. 22, 1996; Princess Caroline, Nov. 19, 2003
Princess Mabel; Princess Kiko, April 26, 2007; Empress Farah, 1960s; Queen Silvia, Sep. 9, 2013
Textured Pillboxes:
Princess Aimee, Oct 20, 2005; Queen Paola, April 5, 2000 and July 21, 2013; Princess Máxima, April 30, 2008
Fur and Faux Fur Pillboxes:
Princess Astrid, Nov. 15, 2008; Archduchess Kathleen, Dec. 29, 2012;
Grand Duchess Maria Teresa, April 15, 2008; Princess Anne, March 13, 2013
Bow-Trimmed Pillbox
Princess Diana, May 20, 1995; Princess Mary, May 6, 2009;
Queen Anne-Marie, Jan. 14, 2012; Queen Beatrix, April 19, 2012
Embellished Pillboxes:
Princess Anne, 1982; Princess Astrid, Oct. 27, 2005; Queen Anne-Marie, 1963; Princess Beatrice, June 2, 2012
Queen Elizabeth, July 9, 1996 and March 2, 2002; Princess Marie, Oct. 6, 2009, Empress Michiko, July 14, 2009
I have always loved pillbox hats and probably always will. I love the simplicity of their design and the slightly retro vibe they carry. It seems to me, however, that the success of the pillbox is often found in the angle it is worn on the head- neither too far forward, nor too far back. I think the pink and green pillboxes worn by Princess Máxima and Princess Kiko at the top of this post are worn at the perfect spot.
What do you think of the pillbox hat?
Photos from: Viva Maxima Blog; Tim Graham via The Royal Forums; Noburu Hashimoto via Corbis; Pascal La Segretain via Getty; Mark Cuthbert via Getty; Toshiyuki Aizawa via Corbis; Nick Verreos Blog; Ragnar Singsaas via Zimbio; Van Parys Media via Corbis; The Royal Forums; Dean Mouhtaropoulos via Zimbio; Mark Cuthbert and Mark Renders/Stringer via Getty; PurePeople.com; Dan Kitwood and Samir Hussein via Getty; The Royal Forums; My Royal Blog; Albert Nieboer via Corbis; Dutch Photo Press; Friends Reunited; Julian Parker, Hulton Archive and Max Mumby/Indigo via Getty; Andrew Murray via Corbis; Hanne Juul/Image Magazine via BilledBladet; Getty Images and AFP/Stringer via Getty
Royal Hats 
Lovely lineup of hats. Has Camilla ever worn a pillbox?
The closest thing Camilla has worn to a pillbox is this. She’s a girl who likes her hats to have a brim.
Thanks for this great overview. Your definition is just what I would go for myself. And being a purist (!) therefore, I’m not sure that I see all of the examples you give as pillboxes. The furry ones, for example – the fur blurs the shape so much that I wouldn’t think of them as pillboxes. To me, pillboxes need to have some sharpness of profile. And that’s why I wouldn’t think of Anne-Marie’s covered in flowers as a pillbox – much too fuzzy in profile! (and even Beatrix’s gently curving straw is a bit iffy on the same grounds of lack of sharpness, although I think it’s an excellent hat). As to angle, I’m not sure there’s a a single ideal that can be prescribed. I do like the ones you mention, but on the other hand, Mary’s one with the flourish at the back (which I love) would look silly if worn any further back, and, if I try to remove the air hostess association from my mind, I think Marie’s tilted forward angle is really flattering and chic of itself.
I agree, Bristol, that a “true” pillbox has very straight sides and top which gives them a sharp, 90 degree top edge. However, here are three hats that I would still consider a pillbox: Hat 1, Hat 2, Hat 3 Even without crisp, sharp edges, these pillboxes are still a pillbox (or rather, a variation on a pillbox!)
Classic and looks good on almost everyone! Of these shown my favorites are Beatrice of York (one of her best, I think!), Diana’s pink one, Princess Aimee’s & Archduchess Kathleen’s. The ones I don’t care for at all are QEII’s (I think she looks better in hats with brims), and Empress Michiko’s.
Pillboxes are always my favourite! This also proves they look brilliant on everyone.
The distinctive hats that Queen Mary of Great Britain wore were always referred to as toques. There is a picture here http://forum.alexanderpalace.org/index.php?topic=7879.105 and another here (Scroll down) http://angalmond.blogspot.com.au/2010/09/tech-teck-toque.html and another (scroll down and down) http://www.wondercafe.ca/discussion/social/north-alaska?page=2
That is exactly what I imagine when thinking of a toque, thanks a lot.
This is also interesting. Is this the kind of hat shape you mean? It almost seems like a pillbox with a rounded crown!
That is exactly what it is! I am surprised at wikipedia’s definition of a toque… not at all what I have grown up to understand (and I am old enough to remember Queen Mary!)
Interesting hat!
Actually, I don’t mean anything, that is why I asked the question in the first place of the difference between toque and pillbox. But this may be the difference: the rounded crown.
I love them all. My favorites are the ones worn by Princess Kiko of Japan, Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, Princess Beatrice of the United Kingdom, and Princess Astrid of Norway. Princess Astrid is rocking that while pillbox (you go girl). I think Princess Beatrice was my favorite though. Her pillbox was age appropriate and youthful and it looked very nice on her.
I also love Beatrice’s pillbox. I think it’s one of her best.
I have never seen this hat on Princess Beatrice and she looks so pretty! I don’t usually like her hats. I wish she would wear pillbox hats more often.
I meant white pillbox NOT while pillbox! 🙂
It seems that what makes a pillbox a pillbox is the straight sides. Maxima’s hats are definately turbans because the sides are rounded around her head.
I like a pillbox much better. I think the plain ones or onces with a little pattern are best.
Thanks for this illustrated definition! And what is the difference between some of these pillboxes and a toque?
As I understand, a toque (in fashion in Europe between the 13th and 16th centuries) was a similar shape to a pillbox but had a small brim around the bottom. It was also pleated around the sides (see here). Toques morphed into what we know as a chef’s hat today– tall, no brim and pleated around the sides. Although, here in Canada, a toque is a knit hat, often with a pompom on top (like these)!
In French, at least, the word toque refers to a brimless hat, not necessarily pleated (cf. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ALaParisienneHiver1913-1914Page2TOQUE.png), and not only to the cook’s hat. It is still widely used to refer to what you call fur pillboxes, just as Barbara pointed out above about Queen Mary’s toques. In that sense, it doesn’t only belong to the past!
Example: Duchess of Cornouailles in what is identified in French as a fur toque: http://www.noblesseetroyautes.com/2009/12/la-toque-en-fourrure-de-la-duchesse-de-cornouailles/
Queen Elisabeth, in what is identified in French as a fur toque (questionable, imo): http://www.puretrend.com/media/ambiance-polka-avec-cette-toque-dont_m526844
Or even a celebrity, Angelina Jolie, in what is identified in French as a fur toque: http://www.news-de-stars.com/angelina-jolie/angelina-jolie-arbore-une-toque-de-fourrure_pic41784.html
So interesting! Would you consider a toque and oversize pillbox? I am still not sure how to categorize a hat like this one, for example. Do you think it is a toque?
Louisa May- I wonder if the use of the word “toque” to describe royal hats is related to the past when many of these hats were made by Parisienne milliners? These days, we don’t see many French designers making royal hats and I wonder if that’s part of the reason we don’t hear them described as toques very often anymore.
Since I am definitely no expert on that matter, I couldn’t say if this hat worn by Princess Michael of Kent can be called a toque, but your last point is very seductive indeed.
I’ve loved it ever since Jackie Kennedy wore them, but only if placed right and I certainly agree with your assessment of who wore it correctly. It seems to me the worst is Queen Elizabeth. Looks so severe on her. I think that is the only style that I could picture on myself.
Jackie Kennedy was a real classy dame. These pillbox hats are real classy too. I like them better plain with a nice suit.
I love it – I am from the USA, and I always picture Jackie Kennedy Onassis when I think of this type of hat. These royal ladies surely give her a run for her money though!! Excellent 🙂
A pillbox always looks so retro chic to me. Love!