This Week’s Extras

Imperial princesses in ivory silk covered hats on Thursday to attend the Autumn Equinox Festival at the Three Palace Sanctuaries.

On September 17, Queen Margrethe visited the Army Officers’ School at Frederiksberg Castle to unveil two new art projects aimed at supporting the dissemination of officers in the Army. She repeated her navy felt hat with rounded crown, gently raised kettle brim and wide silk hatband with tied bow at the side.

The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:

Wonderful leather designs by Australian milliner Tracy Mackinnon
Headpiece of three outstanding flower poufs by Australian milliner Lauren J. Ritchie
Stunning mocha straw fedora by British milliner Louise Pocock
Statement peach straw top hat with feather flowers by Dutch milliner Josemieke Crebolder
Bandeau headpiece of hand rolled red organza ruffles by British milliner Rachel Trevor Morgan
Simply exquisite pink feather headpiece by Australian milliner Belinda Osbourne
Fuchsia button with deep orange silk tulip trim by British milliner Anne Tomlin
Black percher with crin brim and fantastic feather flowers by Australian milliner Rebecca Share
Scarlet sinamay saucer with burnt feathers by London-based milliner Merve Bayindir
Adore the colourful trim on this bandeau headpiece by Irish milliner Laura Hanlon
Love the asymmetrical brim on this sinamay design with navy bow by British milliner Stephen Jones
Silver sinamay button with mixed satin & sinamay twists by British brand Lomax and Skinner
Wonderful lines and texture on this sage fine straw fedora by Australian milliner Jill Humphries

Wonderful photo of the Luxembourg extended royal family taken before a concert on what would have been the late Grand Duke Jean’s 100th birthday

Images from social media as indicated 

Hat From The Past

Princess Kiko celebrates her 55th birthday tomorrow. Here’s a peek back in the depths of her hat closet to a natty navy Breton with domed crown and butterfly trim she wore 30 years ago. It’s fun to see her in saturated colour and a more dramatic hat shape.

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Image from Getty as indicated  

This Week’s Extras

Pale bumper hats on Empress Masako, Crown Princess Kiko, Princess Mako and Princess Kako Friday to mark the anniversary of Emperor Meiji’s death

The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:
Amazing braidwork on this swirling golden cap by American milliner Katie Allen
Floating headpiece of black feather lotus flowers and quills by Australian milliner Belinda Osborne
Swirled orange straw rosette headpiece by British milliner Karen Geraghty
Creative, unexpected and slightly zany fish and tea trimmed perchers by Israeli milliner Maor Zabar
Turquoise button percher with gravity-defying sinamay and floral trim by British milliner Yuan LI
Colour blocked newsboy cap by Italian brand Marone Hats
Halo bandeau entirely handwoven from wheat! Beautiful work by British milliner Josephine Willis

Charming denim blue swirled straw hat by British brand John Boyd Hats
Black halo bandeau with textural pompom trim by Scottish milliner Stephanie Gallen
Darling palest blue straw cloche with slim hatband by Russian milliner Lia Gureeva
Orange straw freeform straw hat with wonderful blue curled straw ribbon trim by British milliner Louise Wilson
Astounding design by Australian milliner Kerry Hayes for the MIMC2021 competition in interlocking triangles
Pink sinamay saucer with the loveliest crin swirled rose trim by British milliner Tracey Miller
Emerald turban with statement ruffle by Nigerian milliner Bima Samuel Ofoneke
Palest lilac freeform hat with silvery grey vines mall made of thermoplastic by UK-based milliner Guilia Mio

The Belgian monarchy shared clips of Princess Elisabeth on a 3-day military course
And finally, congratulations to The Princess Royal who is set to become the first female Captain-General of the Royal Marines.

Images from social media as indicated 

Dutch Royal Wedding 20 Years On: Guests

We finish our look back 20 years at the May 2001  wedding of Prince Constantijn and Princess Laurentien today with hats worn by royal guests and extended members of the Dutch royal family to the couple’s religious ceremony.

Princess Mathilde wore a white parasisal straw hat with slightly flared, flat-top crown and generous mushroom brim. The classic black and white scheme always works and I really like how the black stitching on her coat was reversed in white on the hat’s black hatband.

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Crown Princess Victoria took a more neutral path with a tan and cream subtle plaid coat and dress topped with a picture hat in beige straw. It was not a dynamic look (it’s all rather biscuit!!), not helped by the low curve of the hat’s gently sidesweeping brim that sat awkwardly low over Victoria’s face.

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Mette-Marit Tjenssem, who would become Crown Princess of Norway three months later, wore a blush coat with sequin detail repeated on the hatband of her cream picture hat. It was another quiet ensemble (despite the sequins) but nice, from today’s vantage point, to see Mette-Marit in a brimmed design.

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We can usually count on Princess Märtha Louise to bring some colour and she did not disappoint at this event, pairing her lilac shantung silk suit with a deep orange statement hat. Between the hat’s vibrant shade, extended brim with point ends, fuchsia brim binding and brim stitching and hatband of cut orange and fuchsia silk leaves, it was a memorable design.

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Princess Kiko was in head to hem pale butter yellow. Her hat was a most interesting shape with a bumper style overtop a downward facing visor- it really defies description. Can you remember seeing her in another design of this shape? It feels unique.

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Princess Sibilla of Luxembourg topped her red suit with a natural straw woven hat with rounded crown and fluted brim bound with chocolate binding and topped with a layer of silk petal studded crin… or a large patterned lace? The hat was finished with a large flower on the left side.

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The Countess of Wessex wore two toned hat with green fluted crown and palest seafoam parasisal straw with very interesting, inverted brim and trimmed with peacock feathers. We don’t see many two toned hats and while this one reflects millinery styles of the time, still was a well balanced and interesting (in a good way!) design.

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Princess Alexandra De Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berlebourg (Princess Benedikte’s eldest daughter) contrasted her pale blue ensemble with a copper straw picture hat. The unexpected scheme worked, as did the hat’s scale on Alexandra’s tall frame. I really like the proportion between the hat’s crown and wide brim and the textural contrast provided by the stitched silk bow.

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Princess Miriam of Bulgaria wore a folded black sinamay design with black and white feathers and a black veil.

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Princess Margriet wore a wide brimmed hat in red sinamay with long sinamay sash folded over the hat. That folded sash was unique, as hat trimmings go, but seemed at odds with the rest of the design.

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Princess Marilène (back row behind Prince Constantijn) wore a dark hued, wide brimmed hat. Princess Irene (front row on right, beside Maxima) wore a lime green straw boater with extended brim. Princess Christina (second row, in between Prince Constantijn and Queen Beatrix) looked to be in a hat with black brim and royal blue crown.

It’s always interesting, looking back at past events, which hats seem timeless and which ones reflect specific styles of the time. Looking back 20 years at this event, which hats stand out most to you?

You can see hats worn by immediate family (and the bride’s attire) at the religious ceremony here and hats at the civil ceremony here.

Images from Getty as indicated  

Hawaiian Royal Hats Part V: Hawaiian Royals Today

We wrap up Jake Short’s fascinating series on Hawaiian royal hats with a fifth and final installment today. Jake is a longtime Royal Hats reader and contributor and a very stylish hat wearer who you can follow on Instagram or Twitter. If you’ve missed his previous posts, link to all of them at the bottom. Immeasurable thanks, Jake for this fantastic series!

Claims To The Throne

Who is considered the heir to the Hawaiian throne nowadays is contested. Some consider Quentin Kūhiō Kawānanakoa, grandson of Abigail Kapi‘olani Kawānanakoa, to be the heir as his is directly descended from Prince David Kawānanakoa through primogeniture.

Others say the heir is Abigail Kinoiki Kekaulike “Kekau” Kawānanakoa, seen below in a panama straw porkpie hat with a blue feather hatband). 

Abigail Kekau is the daughter of Lydia Lili‘uokalani Kawānanakoa pictured below, who was the younger sister of Abigail Kapi‘olani. Abigail Kekau was hānai adopted in 1932 by her grandmother Princess Abigail Campbell Kawānanakoa with the idea she would be direct heir, hence why it is argued she is the correct heir.

If Abigail Kekau was to succeed to a restored Hawaiian throne, she would be the world’s second-oldest monarch (Queen Elizabeth II is only two days older) and also the first openly lesbian queen. Abigail Kekau also served as president of the Friends of ‘Iolani Palace organization for almost 30 years.

Outside of the Kawānanakoa claims, Owana Ka‘ōhelelani Salazar asserts she is the true heir to the throne due to her family lineage and connections to the Royal School created by Kamehameha III in 1848. Before her death in 1988, Princess Helena Kalokuokamaile Wilcox named her daughter Owana and Owana’s son Noa as her direct heirs. Neither Abigail Kekau nor Quentin Kawānanakoa seem very interested in pursuing monarchical restoration; in contrast, Owana does so intentionally by interacting with other deposed royal houses from around the world, and bringing back the Hawaiian royal orders (although thus far not wearing royal hats, or at least not any I could find).

Japanese Imperials In Hawai‘i

Remember there was the possibility of a Hawaiian princess marrying into the Japanese Imperial Family? Despite never happening, there have been many Japanese immigrants to Hawai‘i in the last two centuries, and there is still a strong bond with Japan. As such, members of the current Japanese Imperial Family have visited Hawai‘i on several official occasions, often wearing hats.

On his way to attend the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, then-Crown Prince Akihito visited Hawai‘i wearing a smart fur felt fedora. 1960 saw a visit from Nobuhito, Prince Takamatsu, and Kikuko, Princess Takamatsu (uncle and aunt of Akihito); Nobuhito carried a fur felt fedora, while Kikuko arrived in a polka dot cloche with simple sashed hatband.

Akihito returned in 1960 with Crown Princess Michiko, who wore a typical 1960s-style cloche; the next day Michiko wore a traditional kimono, but Akihito carried an optimo-style panama straw hat. A 1966 visit saw Michiko wearing a stylized pillbox/bumper hat; other visits during the 1970s and 1980s by other Japanese royals (including Emperor Hirohito in 1975) saw no record of hats worn in Hawai‘i.

In 1994, Akihito and Michiko returned as Emperor and Empress of Japan, the Empress arriving in one of her signature wider saucer hats.

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Later that day and the next, she wore a pair of her signature pillbox percher hats. Both in ivory, the first was a shorter version covered in ivory silk flowers and avocado silk leaves. The taller design, worn June 24, 1994, was trimmed in an ivory and black bow to match her suit. 

The following day, June 25, 1994 saw two hats on the Empress: first a pale blue small disc hat with a large rose trim, and then a very wide disc hat with a rose and leaves trim on the front when they departed.

A final visit in 2009 saw another wide disc hat trimmed with a large navy blue silk bow, along with one of my favorite all-time hats for Michiko: this wider disc hat with flowers and leaves that coordinates perfectly with her raspberry and black outfit.

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During a 2018 visit to Honolulu with Prince Akishino, Princess Kiko wore a simple and sophisticated navy blue straw hat and the couple were photographed in Hawaiian leis. 

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Other Royal Visits

With the overthrow of the monarchy, the once strong connections with British royal family all but vanished (Hawai‘i’s flag does include the Union Jack due to these historical ties). But Hawai‘i has seen a few visits from the British royals since it became a U.S. state. On 27 March 1963, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip were greeted by then-Governor John Burns; the Queen wore a smaller Breton-style hat during this visit 

A few years later in 1966, the Queen Mother visited Hawai‘i and danced the hula with famous surfer Duke Kahanamoku in one of her typical petal turbans. Duke Kahanamoku was born in the last years of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i and was named after his father Duke, who was christened so after Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, visited Hawai‘i; Kahanamoku was also part of a lesser noble Hawaiian family and apparently also taught the Duke of Windsor (then Prince of Wales) how to surf when he visited in 1920. The Prince and Princess of Wales briefly visited Hawai‘i in 1985, although sans hats.

Conclusion

It remains a sad part of history the Kingdom of Hawai‘i is no longer with us today for many reasons, including for us at Royal Hats not having more possible hats to admire. With decades of close relations with the British, one can only imagine what those may have looked like today; would Hawai‘i be part of the Commonwealth today? Or what if deeper connections with the Japanese Imperial Family had been pursued further? (This is especially interesting when you consider how a continuing independent Hawai‘i or a Hawai‘i as head of a Polynesian federation would’ve changed the course of history, including WWII.)

While the number of hats sported by Hawaiian royals was not vast, it is much more numerous than one might expect, and that’s of course only what was photographed at the time. As a final additional side note, the Daughters of Hawai‘i, a group dedication to the historic preservation of Hawaiian royal palaces, have been seen many times wearing all-white ensembles, including white portrait hats.

I have not visited Hawai‘i yet, but I hope to one day get there and see places of historical importance like the ‘Iolani Palace. Have you been to Hawai‘i? Were you aware of all this history? I hope you’ve enjoyed this unique look at the Royal Hats of Hawai‘i as much as I did discovering them.

Thank you Jake, for all of the research and thought put into this series. It has been insightful, engaging and educational. I have one thing to add- a photo I took in 2017 at The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, designated the Hawaiʻi State Museum of Natural and Cultural History, in Honolulu. These hats were from the Hawaiian Royal Collection- I’m afraid, at the time, I was more intrigued by the beautiful and intricate woven pattern than I was at who had worn them. If anyone has  further information they can share, please do!

Stay tuned later this summer for another series from Jake! His previous guest posts at Royal Hats include: 

Hawaiian Royal Hats Part I   
Hawaiian Royal Hats Part II: World Tour and Golden Jubilee
Hawaiian Royal Hats Part III: Bayonet Constitution and Illegal Overthrow
Hawaiian Royal Hats Part IV: After the Monarchy and Into the 20th Century
Men’s Royal Hats
Royal Men’s Hats: Fedoras and Trilbys
Royal Men’s Hats: Caps and Berets
Royal Men’s Hats: Pork Pies, Hombergs, Boaters, Bowlers and the Rest
Recommend Hat Repeats for  Queen Elizabeth
Recommend Hat Repeats for Queen Máxima Part I and Part II
Recommend Hat Repeats for Queen Margrethe
Recommend Hat Repeats for Queen Mathilde

Images from Getty and social media as indicated; The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun and The Asahi Shimbun, via Getty; U.S. Air Force photo/Staff Sgt. LuCelia Ball;  Private Collection.