Category Archives: Great Britain

The Coronation: Royal Guests

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As we have come to expect at such landmark royal events, royal guests at King Charles III’s coronation represented nations from around the globe. Those who wore hats to this event were as follows:

The Sultan of Brunei and King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden

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King Mswati III and Inkhosikati LaMbikiza of Eswatini: Inkhosikati LaMbikiza wore a dusty pink crin halo headpiece trimmed with feathers in the same colour (see a better photo here)

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King Letsie III and Queen Mesenate of Lesotho: Queen Masenate wore a royal blue straw saucer hat trimmed with a dramatic starburst of ivory goose biot feathers.

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King Abdullah and Queen Rania of Jordan: Queen Rania wore a brimless domed hat in the same pale yellow as her dress. The design includes embellishment at the back (a rosette? a bow?) and a wrap of delicate yellow veil.

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Designer: Noel Stewart. Dress by Tamara Ralph. 
Previously Worn: this hat is new

Prince Albert and Princess Charlene of Monaco:  Princess Charlene topped her pale suit (love the pearl floral buttons!) with a sleek beret percher hat simply trimmed with a knotted bow at the side. The hat looks to be covered in the same barely-blush hue as the suit.

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Designer: Philip Treacy
Previously Worn: This hat is new

King Willem Alexander and Queen Máxima of the Netherlands: Queen Máxima wore a structural white straw saucer hat with brim extension and flying bow. The vertical design of the hat pairs so beautifully with the exquisite applique lace cutout on the bodice of her dress.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress by Jan Taminiau
Previously Worn: This hat is new

King Philippe and Queen Mathilde of Belgium: Queen Mathilde topped a caped pink dress with an ivory straw saucer hat with extended windowpane brim that folds downward in a sharp edge.

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Designer: dress by Armani Prive.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

King Felipe and Queen Letizia of Spain: Queen Letizia wore the largest hat we’ve seen her in to date, a design in natural hued straw with mushroom brim and button crown, draped in an overlay of widely woven (I think it’s vintage?) bubblegum pink net veil. It’s a dramatic design for Letizia and so wonderful to see her experimenting with new millinery shapes.

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Designer: Balel Millinery. Suit by Carolina Hererra. 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

His Majesty The Yang di-Pertuan Agong XVI and Her Majesty Raja Permaisuri Agong of Malaysia

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Queen Anne-Marie, Crown Prince Pavlos and Crown Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece: Queen Anne-Marie wore a navy bandeau headpiece trimmed with a pair of navy silk bows. Crown Princess Marie-Chantal topped her ice blue Mary Katrantzou dress with a coordinating Philip Treacy percher hat trimmed with a monochrome multi-looped bow on the side.

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His Majesty Otumfuo Osei Tutu II, Asantehene, King of the Ashanti Kingdom and Lady Julia Osei Tutu

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Her Majesty Margareta and Prince Radu of Romania: Margareta wore a cornflower blue silk covered percher with feather mount trim. While it coordinates well with her ensemble, unfortunately, it has some some visible construction issues.

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Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary of Denmark: Crown Princess Mary was head to toe in regal purple, her ensemble crowned by a pleated bandeau headpiece with birdcage tulle veil.

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Designer: bespoke Jane Taylor. Coat dress by Soren Le Schmidt 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden wore a klein blue silk covered domed pillbox with bow at the back.

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Designer: Tim Martenson. Dress by Pär Engsheden. Styling by Tina Torn
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Hereditary Prince Alois and Hereditary Princess Sophie of Liechtenstein: Princess Sophie echoed the sleek lines of her dress and coat with a straw beret percher hat in the same orchid purple. The hat is simply trimmed with a straw twist.

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Designer: Philip Treacy
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Crown Prince Haakon and Crown Princess Mette-Marit of Norway: Princess Mette-Marit wore a pink pillbox hat with birdcage veil.

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Designer: bespoke Jane Taylor. Dress by Peter Dundas
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Foreign Minister of Oman, Sayyid Badr Albusaidi and Crown Prince of Oman, Theyazin bin Haitham

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I know many of your have been waiting for this- which hats stood out most to you?

Images from Getty as indicated 

The Coronation: The Extended British Royal Family

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Apologies, everyone, for the break between posts. As expected, the coronation was attended by members of the extended British royal family, the women in a parade of new hats.

Princess Beatrice wore a gold silk bandeau described by the designer as, “Understated and luxurious in equal measure, our ‘Graziana’ headpiece was inspired by Jackie Onassis’ iconic pillbox hats, reimagined in the form of a contemporary ‘hatband’. Crafted from smocked Duchess silk, and designed to create rich depth and subtle texture.” The pairing of gold headpiece and magenta dress is a little unexpected but works so well.

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Designer: “Graziana” headpiece by Emily London. Dress by Beulah London
Previously Worn:  This hat is new

Princess Eugenie wore a navy calot with dark blue crin swish and side bow.

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Designer: Stephen Jones. Dress and coat by Fendi.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Zara Tindall wore a cornflower blue teardrop percher hat covered in the same fabric as her coat. The design is embellished with a matching silk abaca twisted bow and dyed ostrich feather pouf. While a familiar shape on Zara, the colour and trim on this design make it a standout on her.

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Designer: Bespoke “Feather Percher” by Juliette Botterill. Laura Green London coatdress. Styled by Annie Miall
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Margarita Armstrong-Jones wore a bandeau headpiece covered in blush dotted fabric, trimmed with pink feathers on each side. With her textural skirt and silk jacket, the headpiece topped a decidedly couture look.

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Designer: Stephen Jones. Jacket and skirt by Beatrice Ferrant.
Previously Worn: This headpiece is new.

Lady Sarah Chatto topped her elegant pale yellow pleated dress with a matching straw braid picture hat. The design features a wide, cartwheel brim, shallow crown and is simply trimmed with a slim hatband.

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Designer: Stephen Jones. Dress by Jasper Conran. 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Davina Windsor wore a claret button percher with multi-looped bow and quills. Her younger sister, Lady Rose Gillman, wore a vibrant teal padded headpiece trimmed with feathers

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Lady Helen Taylor wore an exquisite ecru boater hat with black pin dots trimmed with an intricate black braid hatband, narrow black brim binding and a swath of dotted tulle veil.

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Designer: Stephen Jones. Ensemble by Dior.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Marina Ogilvy, seen at right below, wore a black wide brimmed hat trimmed in an overlay of ruched silk.

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Princess Michael of Kent repeated her pearl grey silk covered pillbox with white ostrich plume

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Designer: John Boyd
Previously Worn: Jun 14, 2022; Jun 3, 2022; June 19, 2019; May 18, 2019; October 12, 2018; June 13, 2015;  Oct 18, 2014; Jun 16, 2014

Lady Gabriella Kingston wore a vibrant pink saucer hat folded up around the back, trimmed with a twisted straw bow and large silk rose.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

How wonderful to see so many new hats! Which designs here stood out to you most?

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The Coronation: The Working British Royal Family

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Full time working members of the British royal family featured prominently at Saturday’s coronation, no doubt in recognition for the considerable support they provide the monarchy.

 

 

The Prince of Wales wore the deep blue velvet mantle and gold collar of the Royal Order of the Garter over the ceremonial dress uniform of the Welsh guards, complete with cap.

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The Princess of Wales wore a bespoke white silk gown embroidered in roses, thistles, daffodils and shamrocks beneath the deep blue and scarlet robes and gold collar awarded her as Dame Grand Cross of the Royal Victorian Order (GCVO). Her halo bandeau headpiece is made of silk flowers and leaves embroidered in silver bullion and crystal which, according to Vogue, is a “nod to… the Green Man. An ancient figure from British folklore, the Green Man symbolizes spring and rebirth. He wears a crown of oak, ivy, and hawthorn, and the emblematic flowers.”

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It feels like a modern take on a tiara- the shape and scale certainly follows that of a traditional tiara while the embroidered leaves and flowers gives the piece the most intricate dimension and a decidedly contemporary feel. The collaboration of milliner and designer created a piece (and Charlotte’s mini version) that are exquisite and impeccably made,  and will undoubtedly, stand the test of time.

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Designer: Jess Collett and Alexander McQueen. Dress and cape Alexander McQueen.

As one of four Pages of Honour for the king, Prince George wore a knee-length scarlet coat with gold trimmings over an ivory satin waistcoat, and white silk shirt with jabot. Originally made by Ede and Ravenscroft during Queen Elizabeth’s reign, these items were tailored for this coronation. Instead of traditional breeches and stockings, the pages wore more modern black naval trousers.

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Princess Charlotte dazzled in a scaled down version of her mother’s ensemble, a white silk dress with pleated cape embroidered with the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock quartet of United Kingdom national flowers. Her headpiece featured the same beautifully delicate embroidered leaves and flowers as those on her mum’s, scaled down perfectly for her.

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Designer: Jess Collett and Alexander McQueen. Dress and cape Alexander McQueen.

Concluding the Wales children’s patriotic red, white and blue ensembles was Prince Louis in a navy Hainsworth Garter Blue Doeskin Tunic and black pants with Garter Blue Stripe.

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The Duke of Edinburgh wore the Order of the Garter regalia, including black velvet hat with white ostrich plume.

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The Duchess of Edinburgh wore Grand Cross Mantles of the Royal Victorian Order atop a spectacular gown embroidered with British meadow flowers. Her gown was inspired by the1953 coronation regalia and gown worn by Queen Elizabeth II and also the incredible work of ceramic artist Rachel Dein. Made by British label Suzannah London, the gown was embroidered by master embroiderer Jenny King.

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Sophie wore a headpiece of “Hand made satin leaves set on a headband and encrusted with Swarovski crystals, to match the lace by @jennykingembroidery on the gown made by @suzannahlondon Silver plated snowdrops cast in English silver especially made for this bespoke piece. Silver work by @eilyoconnelljewellery.” Credit is also due to British master flower maker Svetlana Faulkner, who made all of the white silk petal leaves on this design. The movement, circling around Sophie’s head, is so striking.

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Designer: Svetlana Faulkner (PresentPerfect Creations)  and Eily O Connell for Jane Taylor. Gown by Suzannah London with lace by Jenny King Embroidery.

Lady Louise Windsor wore a soft periwinkle saucer hat with windowpane brim, trimmed with curled bows. It is the first wide brimmed hat we have seen on her and together with her floral dress, it makes such a lovely ensemble.

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Designer: “Pomona” by Jane Taylor. Dress by Suzannah London
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Earl of Wessex donned a black top hat for the first time for the carriage ride back to Buckingham Palace.

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The Princess Royal arrived at Westminster Abbey in the uniform of her rank of Colonel of the Blues and Royals, with black bicorn hat trimmed with a scarlet vertical feather. Atop this she wore the dark green Order of the Thistle Mantle and gold collar, and Garter Sash, Garter Star, Thistle Star, GCVO Star, KCVO Star and Companion of the Order of the Bath decorations.

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Princess Anne explained her role in the procession back to Buckingham Palace recently during an interview with the Canadian Broadcasting Company. “I have a role as the Colonel of the Blues and Royals in the Household Cavalry regiment as Gold Stick. And Gold Stick was the original close protection officer. So that is a role I was asked if I’d like to do for this coronation, so I said yes. Not least of all, it solves my dress problem.”  Indeed!

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Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence wore the uniform and cap of his naval rank.

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The Duke of Kent wore the mantle and collar of the Royal Order of the Garter while his sister, Princess Alexandra, wore the Grand Cross Mantles and collar of the Royal Victorian Order.

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The Duke of Gloucester wore the black velvet hat with white ostrich plume of the Order of the Garter (along with the Garter mantle and gold collar). Duchess of Gloucester wore a white silk bandeau headpiece trimmed in white cut feathers and a bow at the side. Like the Princess of Wales, Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Alexandra, she wore a white gown beneath the Grand Cross Mantles and collar of the Royal Victorian Order.

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Designer of the Duchess’ headpiece: unknown

There was clearly a communicated dress code for the royal women (excluding Princess Anne in her unique role) and the unity of white gowns and headpieces (again, with one exception) made a striking group.

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The Coronation: The King and Queen

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The coronation of King Charles III and Queen Camilla was celebrated today at Westminster Abbey in London.

 

 

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The king arrived at Westminster Abbey in the bright red velvet surcoat worn by his grandfather, King George VI, at his coronation in 1937. The velvet has been conserved by the Royal School of Needlework, with lining and gold lace conserved by Savile Row tailors, Ede and Ravenscroft.

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Over the surcoat, King Charles wore the Robe of State (also referred to as the Parliament Robe) with long, deep crimson velvet train adorned in Canadian ermine and gold lace. From shoulder to shoulder was the collar and badge of the Order of the Garter. In addition, he wore an embroidered white shirt, military uniform trousers and gleaming shoes with gold buckles.

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For the anointing, the robe and surcoat were removed and replaced with the Colobium Sindonis (“shroud tunic” in Latin) anointing gown  – a simply cut, unembellished open tunic in white linen. Over this was added the Imperial mantle Supertunica, a long, Byzantine-inspired gold silk coat with Girdle belt.

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For the investiture and crowning, the Imperial Mantle Robe Royal was further added. This ornately embroidered gold robe is oldest robe in the royal collection, made for King George IV’s coronation in 1821. The robe is decorated with foliage, flowers, and crowns and joins at the front with a gold eagle clasp.

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King Charles was crowned with the St. Edward’s Crown. With a 22-carat gold frame  that dates to 1661 , the St. Edward’s Crown is twelve inches tall and set with 444 precious and semi-precious gemstones including amethysts, aquamarines, garnets, peridots, rubies, sapphires, spinels, tourmalines, topazes, and zircons set in clusters surrounded by white enamel mounds shaped as acanthus leaves (and weighs a whopping five pounds!). The crown’s base is trimmed in ermine and made more comfortable with a velvet cap sewn inside. Today’s coronation is the only time the St. Edward’s Crown will be worn by the king.

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For the recessional, King Charles removed the gold Robe Royal and Supertunica along with the white linen Colobium Sindonis, replacing them with a purple and gold surcoat and the Robe of Estate of purple silk velvet  and ermine with gold embroidery worn by King George VI at his 1937 coronation. This robe was also conserved and prepared by Ede and Ravescroft.

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Additionally, the king swapped out his Garter badge for a more ornate one and donned the more familiar Imperial State Crown. Originally made by Rundell and Bridge in 1838 for the coronation of Queen Victoria, its design was based on earlier crowns dating back to the sixteenth century. Worn for occasions including the State Opening of Parliament, this crown is set with 2,868 diamonds and hundreds of pearls and other gemstones that give it serious sparkle.

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The uncut red spinel on the front, the Black Prince’s Ruby, has been part of the English royal gem collection since the 1360s and was allegedly worn by King Henry V at the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. Below the spinel is the Cullinan II Diamond, a 317 carat stone cut from the great Cullinan Diamond and added to this crown in 1909. Read an excellent history of this crown here. 

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Queen Camilla’s coronation gown was made by Bruce Oldfield. Cut from creamy white peau de soie, a silk with a matte lustre finish, the fabric was woven by Stephen Walters in Suffolk, England. The dress features a v-neck, three quarter length sleeves and Oldfield’s signature paneling through the bodice, with a modest sweep train.

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The focus of the gown is its embroidery; it is entirely covered in a festival of delicate silver and gold embroidered wildflowers including “daisy chains, forget-me-nots, celandine and scarlet pimpernel, representing the King and Queen Consorts affection for nature and the British countryside,” read a statement from Buckingham Palace. The gown’s cuffs, hem and robe straps (brilliantly cut to resemble a bolero jacket) are covered in gold embroidered roses, thistles, daffodils and shamrocks, the flowers of England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland that have featured on this coronation’s official emblem.

A deeply personal touch, the front of the skirt is embroidered in Camilla’s cypher, her dogs Bluebell and Beth, and the names of her two children and five grandchildren. Her shoes were made by British designer Elliot Zed and covered in the same silk as her gown.

For her arrival at Westminster Abbey, Queen Camilla wore the scarlet velvet Robe of State previously worn by Queen Elizabeth II.

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Queen Camilla was crowned with Queen Mary’s Coronation Crown which recently underwent alternation in preparation for this event; four arches were removed and three of the Cullinan Diamonds were added.

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Original version of Queen Mary’s Coronation Crown (l) compared to current version

Made in 1911, the crown includes more than two thousand diamonds atop a silver and gold frame.

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The renovation of Queen Mary’s Coronation Crown creates a lighter, more delicate consort’s crown that pairs perfectly with the Imperial State Crown.  It’s a slightly modern, streamlined take on a traditional crown that seems an apt metaphor for the kind of monarch King Charles III has said he wishes to be.

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All three crowns today- the St. Edward’s Crown, the Imperial State crown and Queen Mary’s Coronation crown –  were fitted by Philip Treacy, whose team also made new velvet caps of maintenance, custom fit to their new wearers.

Queen Camilla’s diamond necklace, by Garrard, was the same one worn by Queen Elizabeth at her coronation in 1953.

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For the recessional, Queen Camilla wore her own new Robe of Estate. Made by Ede and Ravenscroft in rich purple silk velvet, it was embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework based at Hampton Court Palace in west London, of which Camilla is patron. The design includes 24 different varieties of flowers and plants embroidered in gold thread including lily-of-the valley (a favorite flower of Queen Elizabeth II), lady’s mantle, myrtle, maidenhair fern, cornflowers and delphiniums, a favourite flower of the King and the flower for the month of July, the birth month of the Queen Consort. The national emblems of the rose, thistle and shamrock are included along with bees, butterflies, beetles and a caterpillar in keeping with the wildflower theme. The robe is simply magnificent.

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The king and queen returned to Buckingham Palace in the Gold State Coach, built in 1760 and used at every Coronation since that of William IV in 1831.

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The coronation ceremony was filled with incredible music, thoughtful gestures, intentional acts of inclusion and diversity and an palpable sense of tradition and reverence.  Do watch it when you have a moment.

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Over the next days, we’ll look at all the hats and headpieces worn my royal family members and royal guests at this event.

Images from Getty as indicated 

Buckingham Palace Garden Party

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The first garden party of the season (and the first during King Charles III’s reign!) was held yesterday at Buckingham Palace.

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The king wore his black antique silk covered top hat.

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Queen Camilla repeated a navy sinamay hat with angular crown trimmed with navy lace, sidesweep brim and double white silk covered hatband knotted into a wired flying bow on the side.

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The hat, on it’s own, is great. The lace applique on the crown is unique and therefore notable. However, the combination of hat with high-contrast striped coat somehow doesn’t work for me.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress and coat by Bruce Oldfield.
Previously Worn: Apr 14, 2022

The Duke of Edinburgh repeated his gleaming black antique silk top hat while the duchess repeated her hat from Trooping the Colour last year, a pink and ivory design described by the designer as “a bespoke hand dyed, two tone style disc, trimmed with bows.”

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I really like the saucer shape on Sophie well and the the brim extension, in  transparent pink windowpane sinamay, gives the loveliest lightness and lift to the design. On its first outing, I didn’t like the bows but even they are growing on me here. The contrast of free, whimsical bows with her structured coat dress works is charming for this kind of event.

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Designer: Jane Taylor. Coat dress by Suzannah London.
Previously Worn: June 2, 2022

The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester made up the royal group, the duke in his antique silk covered top hat and the duchess repeating her sky blue sinamay hat with wide pleated brim upfolded to a wide cuff around the edge.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: June 13, 2022;  Jun 3, 2022;  March 29, 2022

The first garden party always kicks off the summer season and this one was no exception (also kicking off coronation week!) What do you think about the hats at this event?

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Images from Getty as indicated