This Week’s Extras

The Prince of Wales attended the Graduation Ceremony of the Queen’s Squadron as the Reviewing Officer at RAFC Cranwell on Thursday in his role of Marshal of The Royal Air Force.
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Two housekeeping items- The Index of Royal Milliners has been reorganized by country (the country each milliner currently works from). The Retrospectives page has been updated with all of our recent Ascot posts- I suspect Queen Mathilde will debut a new hat on Tuesday for Belgian National Day and some of you might want to look back at all of her past National Day looks in anticipation of this. 
The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:
Fun pink straw hat with grey-bound split brim and explosion of curled biot feathers by British milliner Katie Vale

For our dear gents, a beaver felt trilby in the most handsome deep teal by Danish brand Hornskov København
Statement wide brimmed hat in vibrant woven buntal and crin with fringes by US milliner Amy Fowler
Romantic straw picture hat covered in layered rings of pastel crin by British brand Lomax & Skinner
Wonderful 1940s inspired natural straw bandeau with crimson feather flowers by Dutch milliner Wies Mauduit
Black fabric-covered mushroom brimmed statement hat trimmed with handmade wire sculptures adorned with lace by Australian milliner Souri Sengdara

Stephen Jones’ characteristically out-of-the-box take on a classic ecru boater hat
Oversize scarlet straw disc with looped bows, feathers and magenta roses by French brand A Hat at Auteuil
Charming grey straw cloche with black ribbon binding and lace applique by German brand Maliné
A very whimsical and sunny green and yellow daffodil headpiece by UK milliner Marie-anne Talbott
Pyramid-peaked pillbox in black parasisal straw by Russian milliner Lia Gureeva
Ivory straw brimmed hat with the most fantastic woven ribbon trim by British milliner Bundle MacLaren

Such a fun headpiece of magenta, turquoise and yellow silk ranunculus flowers by British milliner Anne Tomlin
Shallow-crowned bridal hat with ethereal overlay of white crin and silver veil by London-based milliner Elena Shvab
Chic black and white woven straw hat with slim hatband by French milliner Béatrice de Beauvoir
Parasisal button percher with soaring jinsin trim in the loveliest shade of lilac by UK brand Rebecca Couture Millinery
Oversize vibrant yellow straw saucer with flying silk abaca bow and jeweled trim by Irish milliner Caithriona King
Textured mini top hat percher in woven grosgrain and rubber by British milliner Stephen Jones

Two new photos of wee Prince Charles and his doting parents released by the Cour grand-ducale Luxembourg
Arthur Chatto is part of a 4-man rookie rowing team attempting to row non-stop unsupported around the UK (breaking 4 world records in the process) to raise money and awareness for JustOneOcean and the Red Cross. Off to a rough start, they seem to be back on track- read more info and track their progress here or at Arthur’s instagram page.
Queen Elizabeth enjoyed a lively Zoom conversation with those serving in the armed forces, including Able Rate Sophie Levy on RFA Argus and Lance Corporal Shanwayne Stephens.
Lovely, relaxed photos of the Princess Royal, taken for her 70th birthday
The Dutch royal family welcomed photographers to Palace Huis ten Bosch yesterday for their annual summer photocall; Crown Prince Haakon and Crown Princess Mette-Marit did the same with their family while at their summer vacation home on the island of Dvergsoya near Kristiansand.

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Photos from social media as indicated

York Wedding

Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi were married yesterday morning in a small private ceremony at the Royal Chapel of All Saints at Royal Lodge, Windsor.

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Princess Beatrice wore an gown of  ivory peau de soie taffeta with silver and diamanté motif beaded on the bodice and upper ballgown skirt made by legendary designer Norman Hartnell in the earlier 1960s. Silk puffed sleeves were added by the Queen’s dressmaker Angela Kelly and fashion designer Stewart Parvin, who also replaced the gown’s balloon hem with a wide stripe of duchesse satin for a sleeker silhouette (and, I suspect, to make the gown long enough for Princess Beatrice, who is taller than her grandmother). It was reported that these adjustments were all reversible.


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Beatrice topped the dress with an ivory silk veil, anchored with Queen Mary’s diamond fringe tiara. Also borrowed from her grandmother, the fringed tiara was also worn for Queen Elizabeth’s wedding in 1947 and Princess Anne’s in 1973. The tiara choice was a surprise but its linear lines echoed the beading on the vintage gown and the pieces paired beautifully together. The warm tone of ivory is exquisite with Beatrice’s colouring and auburn hair and the personal connection to her grandmother through the dress- no doubt, a choice the Queen was actively involved in- is charming and sentimental and all kinds of perfect.

Guests were limited to immediate family only- the only hat we’ve seen was the pale aqua wool crêpe covered design with pink straw flowers worn by the Queen. 

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Like many couples, Beatrice and Edoardo’s wedding plans were impacted by the pandemic. I’m sure you join me in wishing them the very best for the future.

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Photos from Getty as indicated 

Queen Knights Centenarian Captain

Queen Elizabeth was all smiles today, welcoming 100-year-old veteran (and NHS fundraising hero) Captain Tom Moore to Windsor castle for an outdoor investiture to confer the Honour of Knighthood upon him. For this, and a family wedding earlier in the day, she wore a summery new hat.

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The straw hat, covered in the same pale aqua wool crêpe as her coat, follows the shape of Angela Kelly’s split crown hats with a slightly upturned bound brim. The hat is trimmed with a wide ruched hatband, pale grey arrow cut feathers and hand rolled pink straw flowers and curling green leaves on the side. 

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It’s a good hat- the colour is lovely on Her Majesty and the floral trim, which links well with her dress adds lift and brightness to the piece. Seeing the darker green straw leaves from side view helps them make sense- not only do they link with the dress pattern, they give great movement to the hat. My only quibble is the brim pinch on the side, which makes the brim shape a little awkward and wasn’t necessary in a design that has enough other things going on.

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Designer: Angela Kelly, made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Queen was overheard telling Captain Moore that she had attended her granddaughter’s wedding earlier this morning; Princess Beatrice and Eduardo Mapelli Mozzi were married in a small, private ceremony at the Royal Chapel of All Saints which is opposite Royal Lodge, close to Windsor Castle. Buckingham Palace will release photos tomorrow but the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh were photographed traveling to the wedding, Queen Elizabeth wearing this hat.

I think this hat is a great choice for both a granddaughter’s wedding and a garden investiture- what do you think of it?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Hat From the Past

Royal Hats to July 21, 1928 and a Belgian National Day look decidedly more glamorous than we see these days. Princess Astrid, as was her title at this point, celebrated her country in a shallow crowned hat with wonderful curved brim that, I sense, would look as fashionable now as it did then.

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Photos from Getty as indicated

Guest Post: Stetsons

It is lovely to welcome back New Zealand reader Sandra to the blog today for another interesting guest post. Welcome Sandra!

The Stetson hat (and many other styles) has been manufactured since 1865 by the company founded by John Batterson Stetson (1830-1906). Wikipedia relates that his father, Stephen, was a hatter and father and son worked together in New Jersey until John was diagnosed with tuberculosis. Deciding he wanted to see the American West before he died, off he went and once there “turned a critical eye to the flea-infested coonskin caps favoured by many of the gold seekers, and wondered whether fur-felt would work for a lightweight, all-weather hat suitable for the West”. He moved to Philadelphia, designed and began to manufacture a hat that would keep the sun off your neck and out of your eyes, act as an umbrella during rain, and was light and durable.

This first hat, ‘Boss of the Plains’, was the first real cowboy hat (as opposed to the hats cowboys were wearing from their previous vocations), followed by the ‘Carlsbad’, easily identified by its main crease down the front. Stetsons quickly became known as the hat of the West.

Cowboy-style hats had a women’s fashion moment in the late 1960s-early 1970s and royal women weren’t immune. The style has a few gentle ripples on royal heads today, although has been refined and modernised. Then Princess Margrethe of Denmark is pictured in Paris in 1970 wearing a broad-brimmed cowboy hat. The styling is very 70s too, isn’t it, with the heavily patterned cravat-type scarf. 

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In 1952 film star Grace Kelly starred in the Western ‘High Noon’ opposite Gary Cooper so likely knew a thing or two about Stetsons – and here she is, a princess now, wearing one in Liverpool on May 5, 1967, with Prince Rainier carrying 2-year-old Princess Stephanie. I like the curl on the brim of the hat, it gives it that dash of “je ne sais quoi”.  Another photo agency’s caption describes the hat as by Dior but I couldn’t find any corroboration for that anywhere! 

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Looking through the hats Princess Margaret of Great Britain wore over the years is an eye-opening experience. Many times she went out on the edge with her millinery choices (sometimes toppling over the edge, but that’s the risk when you’re avant garde) but it does mean she was always interesting for royal hat-watchers. This hat, amazingly, is among the more staid she’s worn. Pictured below at Ascot with her husband Lord Snowden in 1970, she took the chinstrap off the next year when she wore the hat to a summer church service.

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On a 1958 tour of Canada, the Mayor of Calgary presented Princess Margaret with “a royal blue western-style hat engraved with maple leaves”, and in 1969 a caption describes her as wearing “an attractive Stetson style hat” to open a trade exhibition in London. The hat appeared to have a furry look and seems to be a coloured version of this hat worn in Canada, most likely in 1971.

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Modernising the look – but it’s design origins are still visible – is Queen Mathilde of Belgium, who wore this beautiful hat in 2016.

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And here’s a beautiful blue version of the same style, worn by Lady Gabriella Windsor in 2012.

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I would even suggest that this 2002 Trooping the Colour hat of Gabriella’s fits the brief, mainly thanks to the pinch at the top of the crown.

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Of course, royals also get to wear rootin-tootin, gosh-dang, yee-ha real cowboy hats, especially on visits to the famous Calgary Stampede.  Here are the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge attending the city’s famous Stampede in 2011.

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Crown Princess Victoria at the 1997 wedding of Infanta Christina of Spain. What, you don’t think this is a cowboy hat?

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Compare it to the ‘outlaw’ hats Robert Redford and Paul Newman wore in ‘Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid’ and see what I mean.

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Akubra hats are Australia’s equivalent to the Stetson, although mostly haven’t crossed the divide from working hat to fashion hat. The company was started in Hobart, Tasmania in 1874 by English migrant Benjamin Dunkerley, who also invented a machine to strip the under-fur from rabbit pelts, making it economically viable for hat-making. Another English  migrant Stephen Keir joined the firm, by this time based in Sydney, in 1904, the next year marrying Benjamin’s daughter. The company has remained in Keir hands ever since. The trade name Akubra was registered in 1912. Akubra hats have been worn at numerous Olympic Games, by Australian soldiers around the world, in the movies (‘Crocodile Dundee’ 1986) and by stockmen and women throughout Australia.

A young Prince Harry wore an Aukbra for a photo shoot during his 2003 gap year in Australia, spending four months as a jackaroo (general hand) on a cattle station (ranch) owned by friends of his mother. His father sported an Akubra during a 1994 visit as did Prince William in 2011.

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And King Willem-Alexander didn’t miss out in 2016.

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The natural fit for a cowboy-style hat among female royals must be Zara Tindall, and here she is in an out-and-out version worn to the 2004 Christmas service at Sandringham, described in the caption as a ‘bush-hat’ so more of an Akubra than a Stetson and a fitting full stop to this particular hat journey.

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Thanks, Sandra! It’s so interesting to see this style crossover from casual work hat to stylish women’s royal hat! I can’t help but note that Queen Elizabeth did not don a stetson for a mini-version of the Calgary Stampede, staged especially for her in October 1951, although Prince Philip did! His hat, and the hats worn by sons Charles and Andrew in 1997 were all made by Canadian brand Smithbilt, who makes the official white hat of the stampede. 

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Photos from Getty as indicated and Photo12/Universal Images Group via Getty