Pillbox Placement Part 2: Last Century

After Monday’s post on how royal pillbox hats have been worn over the past 17 years, I thought it would be interesting to look back further at this famous hat shape to see how it was treated in the past. Here is a look at five decades of royal pillbox wearing in the last century.

1950s: The decade before pillboxes surged in popularity, the few that reached royal heads were low versions, mostly worn high on the head. You can see references (the cutouts on Princess Marina’s hat in the middle, for example) to the calots and other close fitting cocktail hats which were popular at the time.

     

1960s: The era of the pillbox arrives! The height and scale of these pillboxes noticeably grows, the edges grow rounder and placement moves back on the head. While some royals place their pillboxes close to their hairline, most wear them further back, firmly centred over the crown of the head. The only pillbox tilted at an angle that I’ve been able to find during this era is the one worn by Queen Sirikit during a 1961 visit to London (hat #7 below).
                          
As there have been multiple comments how the pillboxes worn by Jacqueline Kennedy during the early 1960s heavily influence how we remember hats from this era, it feels important to bend our usual ‘royal hats only’ rule for the sake of this discussion. At far left below is the hat worn January 21, 1961 for the inauguration and in the center, is the pale yellow one worn for the infamous 1961 presidential visit to Paris. All of Mrs. Kennedy’s pillboxes are placed well behind her hairline in a very similar way to how royal pillboxes were worn during the same time period above.
   

1970s: Pillboxes are further inflated, textured and lavishly embellished with ruched scarves, net tulle, woven ribbons, feathers, and a myriad of gigantic bows, trailing ribbons and floral explosions out the back.  Placement is ever so slightly forward from the previous decade- either at the hairline or just behind.

          

1980s: Pillboxes decrease considerably in size although textured materials and large embellishments remain, often on the side of the hat. Placement moves noticeably forward and the hats are worn snug up to the hairline or up onto the forehead. You’ll notice that many pillboxes during this time are also worn tilted to the side.
           

1990s: There’s a little bit of everything- bold colour, pattern, texture, veils, bows, feathers. The forward placement and diagonal tilt of the 1980s continues through the early nineties but as the decade progresses, there is a return to the classic placement of the 1960s- straight on the head and off the face with the front rim of the hat a few inches behind the hairline. There is also a return to classic styling- the large bows, blooms and baubles of the previous two decades disappear and hats become more streamlined as the century draws to a close.

         

 There you have it- more than 70 years of royal pillbox hats!
I’m struck by a few things- first, how similar pillbox placement today is to that in the 1960s (off the face with the front rim placed between the hairline and the top of the head). It’s also interesting that while Jackie Kennedy is widely credited for the popularity of the pillbox, her royal contemporaries were wearing similar hats in a very similar fashion at the very same time (making me wonder who was following who… or if they were all following current fashion of the time?). Finally, Queen Elizabeth’s pillbox placement does not change much over the decades- they all sit fairly far forward on her hairline or forehead (I suspect, a position that works well with her unchanging hairstyle) although she does take part in the 1980s tilt to the side!
I’m curious- what do you notice here? How do you think past trends influence how royals wear pillbox hats today? Do the 1960s designs and how they were worn match the image of the “classic” pillbox you have in your mind? Do you think the 1980s trend of tilting these hats to the side might become popular again sometime in the future?

Hat From the Past

Royal Hats to this day in 1935 and the Silver Jubilee celebrations of King George V. His sister, Queen Maud of Norway, is pictured here in a toque hat, riding with her nephew, the future King Edward XIII.

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Photo from Getty as indicated

Princess Benedikte Returns To Royal Engagements

Princess Benedikte made a return to royal engagements on Sunday (following her husband, Prince Richard’s unexpected death), attending the Danish Osteoporosis Society’s anniversary in Aarhus. She wore a new hat for the event in royal purple straw, trimmed with a pink hatband and large grey and burgundy flower at the side. The flower looks to be the same one as has adorned her navy straw hat, leading me to suspect it is a removable embellishment- something Danish royal milliner Susanne Juul has done before. Princess Benedikte wears this shade of purple well and the combination of trim on the hat and her pale pink suit unexpectedly works.

 Princess Benedikte, May 7, 2017 | Royal Hats

Princess Benedikte, May 7, 2017 | Royal Hats

Designer: I strongly suspect Susanne Juul
Previously Worn: this hat is new

Yesterday, Queen Margrethe, Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary sailed into Oslo aboard the Danish royal yacht Dannebrog. Queen Margrethe repeated the new navy hat with wide hatband we saw her debut on May 3.

Queen Margrethe, May 9, 2017 | Royal Hats

Designer: likely Per Falk Hansen
Previously Worn: May 3, 2017

Thoughts about this Danish pair of royal hats?

Photos from Ole Hartmann Schmidt via Konghuset and Scanpix

Hat From the Past

Royal Hats to 50 years ago today, a visit to Toronto, and a young Princess Paola of Belgium in a tall crowned hat with cuffed brim.

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Photo from Getty as indicated

Queen And Duke of Edinburgh Celebrate College Centenary

Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh visited Pangbourne today to take part in the centenary celebrations of Pangbourne College. The Queen, who presented new colours to the institution and academic awards to several students, repeated her silk embroidered wool hat with diagonal crown and wired sequin flower trim.

Embed from Getty Images
Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Today’s outdoor photos again pick up the pink and blue threads in the fabric of this hat and matching coat, a view required to understand its fine detail. I’m not sure I like the juxtaposition of this subtle finery with the bold ski slope shape of the crown (or maybe I’ve seen it too often recently?) but overall, the Queen wears it well.

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Embed from Getty Images
Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Thoughts on this hat today?
Photos from Getty as indicated