Royal Ascot Day 5: The Queen

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Royal Hats

I’m so pleased to welcome Spanish milliner Rafa Peinador, creator of his namesake London-based millinery brand, to share his thoughts on all of the royal hats we see today on the final day Royal Ascot!  

The cream straw hat follows the split crown design used on several other Kelly/McLaren designs, the same silk wool as the Queen’s coat wrapping half of the hat’s tall crown and edging the short brim. The hat is trimmed simply with a spray of silk orchids and a slim green bow at the side.

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Rafa Peinador: Her Majesty the Queen today went back to softer colours and a more classic shape. It was a very safe option which is in line with the hats she normally wears. I love the way the pale green fabric, with a white  “marble effect” has been incorporated in the edge of the brim. I am not very keen on the use of the fabric in the crown. It would have preferred for the whole crown to be covered with the fabric or a maybe used as a ribbon like trimming around the base of the crown.

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Royal Hats: The hat radiates spring from its colour and light floral trim. So fresh! I think the hat would look crisper and more refined if the brim binding was slimmer- it’s a little clunky. Same for the fabric crown wrap, even though it’s an interesting design feature unique to Kelly/McLaren hats.

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Rafa Peinador: I love the combination of white, green and yellow used for the flowers. The green piping holding the flowers simulating the stems is very clever. However I am not very keen on the yellow buds, they look too artificial. I would have preferred bespoke hand made flowers.

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Royal Hats: I’m coming away from Ascot this year with a new awareness, understanding and appreciation for hand made flowers, thanks to all our guest milliners have shared about them this week. They certainly are a cut above (pun intended!).

Designer: Angela Kelly made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn: March 28, 2019; April 21, 2016

The Queen was accompanied by the Duke of York in his black antique silk top hat.

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What do you think of Her Majesty’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 4: Wrap Up

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The only other royal enjoying the races today was, again, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum (again, without Princess Haya!).

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Today’s carriage procession also saw a few hats atop noble heads:

Sara Cumani (her husband, Luca, is a horse trainer) wore a pink silk bandeau with flowers. I believe the other woman has not been named correctly- her cream saucer is covered in a black diamond mesh used for the bow.

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Lady Carolyn Warren in a cream straw upsweeping saucer. John Warren and Mark Etherington beside him are both in silk top hats.

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Dame Annabelle Whitehead (the Queen’s Lady in Waiting) in an almond windowpane straw hat with mint binding stripe. Beside her is Mrs. Benjamin Bathurst (her husband is Commander of the Household Division) in a navy and cream hat.

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The following additional hats caught the attention of our guest milliner, Lauren Ritchie:

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Lisa Tan in her signature tiered bias brim with a boater crown
Aly Vance in  Philip Treacy
Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey in Rachel Trevor-Morgan
Lottie Moss in Vivien Sheriff
Nicholas Pinnock in top hat

Britney Eurton in Sarah Cant Millinery
Milliner Lia Gureeva in her own design 
Gina Bryce in Anabella Millinery 

GREAT picks, Lauren- many were on my list as well! I also liked:

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Rosie Tapner in Rafa Peinador’s natural straw beret with fantastic black floral trim (he’s our guest milliner tomorrow and is in the second photo above, along with Rachel Trevor Morgan)

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Valerie Stark in a twisted grey Jane Taylor vertical headpiece
Sarah Soulsby’s orbiting percher
Philip Treacy in a silk top hat with Demi Moore in a sharp black straw ‘slice’ with green & burgundy silk flowers
Presenter Jenni Falconer in a lilac button percher with pleated crin ruffle by Bundle MacLaren
Soprano Camilla Kerslake in a black straw bandeau with white flowers by Sally Ann Provan

Catherine Donaldson in a black straw Jane Fryers picture hat with modern trim
Katrina Arie in Russian milliner Denis Guleyaev’s magenta percher with navy velvet trim
Charming leaf green straw percher with bow by Atelier Millinery
Milliner Yvette Jelfs in a bright pink floral trimmed hat of her own design
PR exec Kara Goodley in a William Chambers brimmed hat entirely covered in dove grey ostrich feathers
Ebony Goudeau in a pink and lime green silk from American milliner Arturo Rios
Double layered cream flower-shaped headpiece with navy trim by British milliner Katie Vale
Mhairi Mercer’s bright citrus hued straw boater by Laylaleigh Millinery
Racing correspondent Francesca Cumani in a natural staw and navy flowered hat by Nicola de Selincourt
Lizzie’s Hats owner Elizabeth Hughes in pale blue Emily London

And this spectacular yellow straw disc with multi-coloured feather trim by Hostie Hats (see front view here)
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My heartfelt thanks to Lauren Ritchie for sharing her millinery knowledge and great style eye with us today! Thank you so very much, Lauren!

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Royal Ascot Day 4: The Yorks

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Royal Hats

I’m so fortunate to be joined today by Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to chat about today’s royal hats at Ascot!  

The Duchess of York topped a sunshine yellow dress with a teal velvet headpiece trimmed with peacock feathers and finely dotted net veil. The milliner notes that the hat is partially upcycled from a vintage piece.

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Lauren Ritchie: Jess Collett has made some wonderful pieces for the Duchess of York! 

Royal Hats:  I’m really liking their ongoing collaboration. It has really elevated Sarah’s hats!

Lauren Ritchie: I really enjoy the combination of the radiant yellow and jade peacock but would have put her in the same coloured shoes instead of the purple. The green accessories of bag, clutch and gloves are a well considered combination.

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Lauren Ritchie: I’m unsure of how this hat was designed to be worn. My first reaction is I would like to pull it firmly down over her right eye, moving the plumes to be more central on her head to add height but then looking from other angles,  the hat also looks somewhat turban-like but moved forward on the head, treated more like a button. It is a playful combination of styles.  

Royal Hats: I think different placement on the head would help! The colour blocking is fun and Sarah wears green SO well. The headpiece base has an interesting shape that I like- it’s open without he doughnut look of a completely open circle. I’m just not sure about the styling here- does the velvet  headpiece and purse work with the light, sunny, summer dress? I don’t know.

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Royal Hats: I’m intrigued by this shape, Lauren- how would you go about blocking an interwoven piece like this? What finishing challenges does a shape like this bring?

Lauren Ritchie: For a piece constructed in this way, all of the finishing would need to occur underneath.  It is a bit of an illusion-  it could be two pieces that are constructed in full, finished parts and then interlocked together to form the final shape or it could be a pillbox shape that has been cut into and wrapped around itself. Either way, the base material would need to be very sturdy to support the weight of this material. 

Royal Hats: Thanks, Lauren. Your explanation is helping me realize how impeccably it is constructed. I can’t remember other royal hats that have included upcycled parts from a vintage hat and this is wonderful to see here. I’d love to see more upcycled and recycled royal hats!

Designer: Jess Collett
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Duke of York again looked dapper in his elegant black antique silk top hat.

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What do you think of the Duchess’ hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 4: The Taylors

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Royal Hats

It’s my pleasure to be joined today by Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to chat about today’s royal hats at Ascot!   

Lady Helen Taylor joined the Queen in her carriage for today’s arrival in a dusky pink teardrop percher with dramatic pleated pouf and birdcage in net veil.

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Lauren Ritchie: Contrasting bows have been a feature in Ascot outfits this year.  The contrasting and vibrant orange is the feature of this dress and it accessorised very well. The covered beret with draped tulle compliments the outfit and adds its own dramatic element of height without fighting for your eyes attention.  

Royal Hats: Agreed! This hat does  a great job of blending with the ensemble (and letting that orange bow sing!) while the tall tulle trim enables the design to hold its own.

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Royal Hats: Lauren, what can you tell us about working with veiling net, such as an amount like this, on a hat? Does it require stiffening? What challenges come with working with this material?

Lauren Ritchie: Veilings can naturally be quite stiff, natural silk veilings respond well to steam and will hold their shape.  Sometimes a veil can require a light stiffener such as hairspray and it is easy to spray once the veiling has been arranged.

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Royal Hats: Hairspray?! That’s a surprise but it makes sense!

Lauren Ritchie:The cuts to the veil on Helen’s hat are clever with the pointed edge, leaving the tip light so it does not fall under its own weight. Holding it in place requires the use of tie tacks which are done in either a matching or clear thread. 

Designer: Unconfirmed. Helen’s hats usually come from Stephen Jones.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Helen’s husband, Timothy Taylor, and Peter Phillips rounded out the first carriage. The men both wore black felt top hats- some of the better felt designs we’ve seen on royal heads, I think.

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What do you think of Lady Helen’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Royal Ascot Day 4: Queen Elizabeth

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I’m so happy to welcome Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to share her thoughts on all of the royal hats we see today on the fourth day of Royal Ascot!  

Queen Elizabeth wore her fourth new hat of this year’s racing event, in bright pink. The modified cloche shape features a squared brim and is covered in the same textured fabric as the ensemble’s matching coat. An oversize ostrich feather, dyed in the same hue, wraps diagonally around the side of the crown to complete the design.

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Royal Hats: Does anyone wear this shade of pink better than the Queen?!

Lauren Ritchie: This is a striking colour that beautifully contrasts the softer tones Her Majesty wore throughout the rest of the week.  The feathers add a lovely texture to the piece. 

Royal Hats: Lauren, how is a large ostrich feather like this one, affixed to a hat such as this? I suspect it is sewn down the middle spine, leaving the upper feather wisps free to move but what can you tell us about the joy (and challenge!) of working with these types of feathers?

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Lauren Ritchie: One option is the ostrich feather can be stitched down through the spine with the use of a straw needle and thimble.  Moving through sideways the spine, not up and down, there would be around three secure stitches along the point of the spine. It is a challenge not to catch the soft plumes in stitches as they are difficult to control and keep out to the way while working.

Royal Hats: I can imagine! I’m a bit torn on this hat. The colour is fantastic and I like how the feather trim partially hides that the hat is covered in the same textured fabric as the Queen’s coat but… as expertly as it has been treated, it seems a little messy. It takes additional time and skill to make a beautiful fabric covered hat but I wonder, if with this ensemble, something in dyed straw might feel lighter and more summery?

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Lauren Ritchie: While I do agree that the beautiful work of making a fabric covered hat with the highly skilled under brim finish is covered by the plumes, a different material would add yet another texture to an already full outfit with the contrasting patterned dress underneath.

Designer: Angela Kelly, made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn:  This hat is new

What do you think of the Queen’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated