Tag Archives: Duke of York

Mourning Millinery

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Numerous hats have been worn over the past 11 days of mourning since Queen Elizabeth’s passing:

September 10: Princess Beatrice in an embellished headband to admire flowers and tributes left outside Balmoral Castle.

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September 11:  Princess Anne wore a repeated black beret with net veil overlay and feather trim by Amy Morris-Adams for the arrival of the Queen’s coffin at Holyrood House in Edinburgh from Balmoral

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September 12: The King, The Princess Royal, Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence and the Earl of Wessex were in military uniform for the procession of The Queen’s coffin from the Palace of Holyroodhouse along the Royal Mile to St Giles’ Cathedral.

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They were joined by Queen Camilla and the Countess of Wessex.

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Queen Camilla: Repeated black straw hat with feather wrap by Philip Treacy
Countess of Wessex: Repeated black felt button percher with draped silk abacca bow by Jane Taylor. 

September 13: Princess Anne attended a prayer service at  St Giles Church and accompanied her mother’s coffin from Scotland to RAF Northolt.

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Princess Anne: Repeated silk covered pillbox with ruffled bow at the back 

Queen Camilla accompanied the King on a visit to Northern Ireland.

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Queen Camilla: Repeated straw brimmed hat with side bow by Lock & Co. 

September 14: King Charles, The Prince of Wales, The Princess Royal, the Earl of Wessex, the Duke of Gloucester  and Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence wore military uniform to follow the Queen’s coffin from Buckingham Palace to the Palace of Westminster. They were joined by the Duke of Sussex, Earl of Snowdon, Peter Philips, Duke of York and members of Queen Elizabeth’s staff.

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At the Palace of Westminster, the group was joined by the British royal family.

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Queen Camilla: New black straw hat with wrapped hatband by Philip Treacy
Princess of Wales: New Black Pillbox Halo in Crepe by Jane Taylor
Duchess of Sussex: New Black Veiled Beret Fascinator with ribbon trim by Stephen Jones
Princess Beatrice: New Waterfall Bow Band by Justine Bradley-Hill
Princess Eugenie: New ‘Galilea’ Headpiece in Black by Emily London
Countess of Wessex: New ‘Aphrodite’ Headpiece in Black Crepe by Jane Taylor
Lady Louise Windsor: New Felt Beret with Quill in Black by Whitely
Zara Tindall: New bespoke by Juliette Botterill

September 16: King Charles, The Princess Royal, the Earl of Wessex and the Duke of York stood vigil at their mother’s coffin in the Palace of Westminster.

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They were joined by members of the Royal family, the York Princesses, Duchess of Gloucester, Lady Rose Gilman, Princess Alexandra, the Countess of St. Andrews, Lady Helen Taylor and her daughters, Lady Frederick Windsor, and the Tindall and Philips families in hats/headpieces.

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Queen Camilla repeated her new black straw hat with wrapped hatband on a visit to Wales with the King.

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The Prince and Princess of Wales visited to Army Training Centre Pirbright in Guilford.

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Princess of Wales: Repeated black felt saucer with raised brim and curled trim by Lock & Co.

September 17: The Prince of Wales, The Duke of Sussex, Princess Beatrice, Princess Eugenie, Lady Louise Windsor, James, Peter Phillips and Zara Tindall stand vigil at their grandmother’s coffin in the Palace of Westminster.

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Princess Beatrice: Repeated Waterfall Bow Band by Justine Bradley-Hill
Zara Tindall: New ‘Darcey’ Black Velvet Veiled Headband (without the embellishments) by Bee Smith

Empress Masako wore bumper hats departing for and arriving in London

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September 18: Queen Silvia of Sweden and Crown Princess Marie-Chantal at the Palace of Westminster.

 

Images from Getty and social media as indicated  

British Royals Commemorate Remembrance Sunday

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Members of the British Royal Family joined veterans, military servicepeople, members of government and civilians for a Remembrance Ceremony held yesterday morning at The Cenotaph, in Whitehall.

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The Prince of Wales, who placed wreaths on The Cenotaph of behalf of his mother, was joined by the Princess Royal, the Dukes of Cambridge, Sussex, York, and Kent and the Earl of Wessex, all in military uniform.

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Queen Elizabeth, who watched the service from a Whitehall balcony for the third year, repeated a black straw hat with silk crepe covered crown and binds the upturned kettle brim. The hat is simply trimmed with a stripe of black silk which circles the crown, anchored by two covered buttons in the font.

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Designer: Angela Kelly, made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn: June 27, 2017; Nov 8, 2015

The Duchess of Cornwall wore a new, brimless hat. The design follows an oversize helmet (or mushroom top?) shape with gently rounded edges. The curved lines of the hat are dramatically accentuated with a mass of overlapping black feathers that circle around it.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Duchess of Cambridge also wore a new, brimless hat, her design built on a formed teardrop beret base with gentle crease down the center which gives it a gentle curve. The hat is beautifully trimmed with black braid ‘frog’ fasteners and corresponding beaded buttons which, along with the embroidered and tassel trimmed swags on her coat, give a thoughtful military nod to the day.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Coat by Catherine Walker
Previously Worn: this hat is new

The Duchess of Sussex wore a streamlined black felt hat with wide cartwheel brim. The straight sides of the hat’s crown elevate its sophistication, as does its slim hatband, tied in front in an elegantly austere bow.

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Designer: Stephen Jones’ ‘Facetime’ from AW 2019 Miss Jones Collection. Coat by Stella McCartney. 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Countess of Wessex wore a black felt perching saucer hat trimmed with a large bow. A subtle swirl on the inside of the saucer (created through hand shaping) gives lovely movement to the design.

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Designer: Jane Taylor. It is the ‘Black Felt Hat With Bow’ from AW 2019. 
Previously Worn: this hat is new

Princess Alexandra and the Duchess of Gloucester usually attend this event but so far, do not appear in any photographs (I’ll update the post if they do). In the meantime, there are some beautiful new hats here to admire.

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Royal Ascot Day 5: The Queen

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Royal Hats

I’m so pleased to welcome Spanish milliner Rafa Peinador, creator of his namesake London-based millinery brand, to share his thoughts on all of the royal hats we see today on the final day Royal Ascot!  

The cream straw hat follows the split crown design used on several other Kelly/McLaren designs, the same silk wool as the Queen’s coat wrapping half of the hat’s tall crown and edging the short brim. The hat is trimmed simply with a spray of silk orchids and a slim green bow at the side.

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Rafa Peinador: Her Majesty the Queen today went back to softer colours and a more classic shape. It was a very safe option which is in line with the hats she normally wears. I love the way the pale green fabric, with a white  “marble effect” has been incorporated in the edge of the brim. I am not very keen on the use of the fabric in the crown. It would have preferred for the whole crown to be covered with the fabric or a maybe used as a ribbon like trimming around the base of the crown.

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Royal Hats: The hat radiates spring from its colour and light floral trim. So fresh! I think the hat would look crisper and more refined if the brim binding was slimmer- it’s a little clunky. Same for the fabric crown wrap, even though it’s an interesting design feature unique to Kelly/McLaren hats.

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Rafa Peinador: I love the combination of white, green and yellow used for the flowers. The green piping holding the flowers simulating the stems is very clever. However I am not very keen on the yellow buds, they look too artificial. I would have preferred bespoke hand made flowers.

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Royal Hats: I’m coming away from Ascot this year with a new awareness, understanding and appreciation for hand made flowers, thanks to all our guest milliners have shared about them this week. They certainly are a cut above (pun intended!).

Designer: Angela Kelly made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn: March 28, 2019; April 21, 2016

The Queen was accompanied by the Duke of York in his black antique silk top hat.

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What do you think of Her Majesty’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 4: The Yorks

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Royal Hats

I’m so fortunate to be joined today by Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to chat about today’s royal hats at Ascot!  

The Duchess of York topped a sunshine yellow dress with a teal velvet headpiece trimmed with peacock feathers and finely dotted net veil. The milliner notes that the hat is partially upcycled from a vintage piece.

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Lauren Ritchie: Jess Collett has made some wonderful pieces for the Duchess of York! 

Royal Hats:  I’m really liking their ongoing collaboration. It has really elevated Sarah’s hats!

Lauren Ritchie: I really enjoy the combination of the radiant yellow and jade peacock but would have put her in the same coloured shoes instead of the purple. The green accessories of bag, clutch and gloves are a well considered combination.

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Lauren Ritchie: I’m unsure of how this hat was designed to be worn. My first reaction is I would like to pull it firmly down over her right eye, moving the plumes to be more central on her head to add height but then looking from other angles,  the hat also looks somewhat turban-like but moved forward on the head, treated more like a button. It is a playful combination of styles.  

Royal Hats: I think different placement on the head would help! The colour blocking is fun and Sarah wears green SO well. The headpiece base has an interesting shape that I like- it’s open without he doughnut look of a completely open circle. I’m just not sure about the styling here- does the velvet  headpiece and purse work with the light, sunny, summer dress? I don’t know.

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Royal Hats: I’m intrigued by this shape, Lauren- how would you go about blocking an interwoven piece like this? What finishing challenges does a shape like this bring?

Lauren Ritchie: For a piece constructed in this way, all of the finishing would need to occur underneath.  It is a bit of an illusion-  it could be two pieces that are constructed in full, finished parts and then interlocked together to form the final shape or it could be a pillbox shape that has been cut into and wrapped around itself. Either way, the base material would need to be very sturdy to support the weight of this material. 

Royal Hats: Thanks, Lauren. Your explanation is helping me realize how impeccably it is constructed. I can’t remember other royal hats that have included upcycled parts from a vintage hat and this is wonderful to see here. I’d love to see more upcycled and recycled royal hats!

Designer: Jess Collett
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Duke of York again looked dapper in his elegant black antique silk top hat.

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What do you think of the Duchess’ hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 3: Princess Anne & Vice Admiral Laurence

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I’m so happy to welcome Ellie Vallerini, creator of Sussex-based Ellie Vallerini Hats, here to chat about all of today’s royal hats at Ascot!  

Princess Anne paired a new silk teal dress and muted teal coat with a matching hat. The straw design, in the same muted teal as the coat, has a rounded crown and high, sidesweeping brim and is embellished with a curling, multi-looped straw bow interspersed with trimmed feathers.

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Royal Hats: Happy claps! A new hat for Princess Anne!

Ellie Vallerini: How great to see Princess Anne in a new hat! The shape of this hat is fantastic, it’s always a flattering angle and a perfect size for her. I like the colour on her, although feel she could have gone a few tones darker. Although the hat itself is a bit safe the outfit altogether looks very elegant and I like the look of her dress colour underneath.

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Royal Hats: I’m with you, Ellie- the shape and scale are wonderful and the curling straw bow and feathers are a lively but still refined decoration. A few shades darker would have been great,although I think this one works thanks to the darker teal silk from Anne’s dress repeated on the hatband and piping on the bow and jacket lapel edges. It’s so good to see her embracing some softer, less severe hat shapes than some of the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s designs still lurking in her hat closet!

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Designer: Amy Morris-Adams
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Princess Anne arrived with her mother in the first royal carriage, along with her husband Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence, and younger brother, the Duke of York, both who wore a black antique silk top hats.

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What do you think of Anne’s new hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated