Royal Ascot Day 4: The Taylors

Royal Hats

It’s my pleasure to be joined today by Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to chat about today’s royal hats at Ascot!   

Lady Helen Taylor joined the Queen in her carriage for today’s arrival in a dusky pink

Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Lauren Ritchie: Contrasting bows have been a feature in Ascot outfits this year.  The contrasting and vibrant orange is the feature of this dress and it accessorised very well. The covered beret with draped tulle compliments the outfit and adds its own dramatic element of height without fighting for your eyes attention.  

Royal Hats: Agreed! This hat does  a great job of blending with the ensemble (and letting that orange bow sing!) while the tall tulle trim enables the design to hold its own.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: Lauren, what can you tell us about working with veiling net, such as an amount like this, on a hat? Does it require stiffening? What challenges come with working with this material?

Lauren Ritchie: Veilings can naturally be quite stiff, natural silk veilings respond well to steam and will hold their shape.  Sometimes a veil can require a light stiffener such as hairspray and it is easy to spray once the veiling has been arranged.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: Hairspray?! That’s a surprise but it makes sense!

Lauren Ritchie:The cuts to the veil on Helen’s hat are clever with the pointed edge, leaving the tip light so it does not fall under its own weight. Holding it in place requires the use of tie tacks which are done in either a matching or clear thread. 

Designer: Unconfirmed. Helen’s hats usually come from Stephen Jones.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Helen’s husband, Timothy Taylor, and Peter Phillips rounded out the first carriage. The men both wore black felt top hats- some of the better felt designs we’ve seen on royal heads, I think.

Embed from Getty Images

What do you think of Lady Helen’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Trooping The Colour: Gloucester & Kent Families

We conclude our look at the hats seen Saturday for Trooping the Colour with those worn by members of the Gloucester and Kent families. With extremely limited photos (my sincere thanks to Paul Ratcliffe for again, providing the only available photos of these family members) to share, I’m going to try and avoid confusion (or excessive scrolling for photos) by reducing commentary to a minimum. Please click on the following galleries twice to open up larger size photos:

Gallery 1:

The Duchess of Gloucester: steel blue straw veiled pillbox
Previously Worn: May 29, 2019; May 23, 2019;  May 31, 2018

Lady Rose Gilman: muted slate blue straw beret with knotted straw sash
Previously Worn:  Jun 10, 2016 Previously worn by the Duchess of Gloucester: Nov 21, 2012; Jun 2, 2012

Lyla Gilman (Lady Rose’s young daughter, far right below): pink polka dotted bandeau

Embed from Getty Images

Gallery 2:

Princess Michael of Kent: rounded, white fabric covered pillbox
Designer: I believe it is John Boyd 
Previously Worn: May 29, 2019, June 12, 2016; June 2, 2016; June 15, 2013June 11, 2011June 20, 2008

Countess of St. Andrews: white straw disc with turned down edges and curl of taupe abacca around the crown
Previously Worn: June 11, 2016

Gallery 3:

Lady Helen Taylor: black straw beret percher with navy veil and triangle tufts of purple and royal blue crin
Previously Worn: May 18, 2019

Gallery 4:

Estella Taylor: tan fabric bow bandeau
Previously Worn: I believe this is new

Lady Frederick Windsor: pale blue sinamay dramatic sidesweep covered in feather flowers
Designer: Catherine Walker Millinery. I believe it is the “Trevi” hat.
Previously Worn: I believe this is new

Embed from Getty Images

Lady Gabriella Kingston: blush sinamay hat with angled crown and sharply sideswept brim with jinsin hatband and twists
Designer: Philip Treacy. It is OC 591 from SS 2019. Coral coat dress by Claire Mischevani
Previously Worn: I believe this is new

Embed from Getty Images

Flora Ogilvy: ecru straw disc percher with a multi-looped bow and silk rose on the side
Previously Worn: May 18, 2019

View this post on Instagram

🥰 @florarteviste

A post shared by Z E N O U S K A M O W A T T (@zenouska1) on


View this post on Instagram

🎀

A post shared by Z E N O U S K A M O W A T T (@zenouska1) on

Zenouska Mowatt : vibrant magenta silk bandeau with folded bow (love this with her blue lace dress and aqua shoes!)
Designer: Laura Cathcart Millinery. It is the “Arizona in fuchsia“. Carolina Herrera dress.

Previously Worn: This hat is new

Trooping the Colour is always a highlight in our royal hat watching calendar and this year’s celebration, which saw 28 hats, did not disappoint. We’ve seen some stellar hats (including a handful from designers we’ve not previously seen on royal hats) which makes me all the more excited for the Garter service and Royal Ascot next week. 
Embed from Getty Images

Photos from Getty and social media (thanks to Paul Ratcliffe!) as indicated; Gareth Fuller via Getty

Kent Wedding at Windsor: Kent Family

Today’s wedding at Windsor Castle of Lady Gabriella Windsor and Thomas Kingston was clearly a family affair, with numerous members of Ella’s Kent family in attendance. Her mother, Princess Michael of Kent, topped her lilac ensemble with her repeated bumper hat covered in pearlescent light grey silk.  The hat, which until this outing appeared to be a pillbox, is dramatically trimmed with a streaming ostrich feather plume around the back.

Embed from Getty Images

It’s a signature look for Marie-Christine and while I was a little surprised not to see her in a new hat today, this pale grey design coordinates well with her grey and lilac patterned jacket. And organza scarves. And multiple strands of beads. And brooch. It’s not a minimalist look, this one.

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: John Boyd
Previously Worn: October 12, 2018June 13, 2015;  Oct 18, 2014Jun 16, 2014

Lady Frederick Windsor paired her pale blue feather trimmed coat with a cream wide brimmed saucer hat adorned in pale blue dotted tulle, silk crepe bow loops and more feathers.

Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Catherine Walker, the brand that designed the hat and coat, has recently ventured into the millinery world and I think some inexperience is visible here. The execution of the bow loops is a bit lumpy and lacks crisply turned corners and there are visible ripples in the silk covering the underside of the hat. While I really like the scale of this hat on Sophie, I’d like to see feathers on either the coat or the hat- but not both.

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: both hat and coat are the “Bliss” designs by Catherine Walker
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Gabriella’s aunt, Princess Alexandra wore a new straw hat in beautiful teal straw, trimmed with burnt feathers anchored at the front with a jeweled button and slim bow. The Countess of St. Andrews (daughter-in-law of the Duke and Duchess of Kent) topped her pink suit with a wide brimmed straw hat in pale blue-grey with pleated crin in the same colour folded around the hat’s brim. The design is completed with pink sinamay ribbon loosely wound around the hat that finishes in a looping bow at the front, studded with two pink quills. I wish better views of Sylvanna’s hat were visible because it looks like a beaty.

Sylvanna’s elder daughter, Lady Marina Windsor, wore a wide folded disc hat in red straw. The hat is a brave one in terms of scale and simplicity but paired well with Marina’s floral dress. We’ve talked about finishing issues from this milliner several times recently and if you look at the lumpy brim edge, they’re present again. Disappointing.

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Fabienne Delvigne
Previously Worn: I believe this hat is new

Lady Amelia Windsor topped her puple daisy printed frock with a cream buntal straw teardrop percher, trimmed with a knotted buntal flying bow. The hat has beautiful balance and movement and it’s fantastic… but I think it could do much better paired with something other than this dress.

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Philip Treacy OC 470 from SS 2018. Dress by Gül Hürgel
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Helen Taylor wore a black straw beret percher trimmed with swathed navy veil and triangle tufts of puple and royal blue crin. A sparkling crescent hatpin completed the millinery look.

Embed from Getty Images
Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Likely Stephen Jones. Dress by Amanda Wakely
Previously Worn: I believe this hat is new

Helen’s younger daughter, Estella Taylor, was an attendant (or assistant), helping wrangle the young bridesmaids. She wore a black and white headpiece that looks to be made of silk flowers and straw leaves. As far as youthful headpieces go, this one is great.

 

Embed from Getty Images

Julia Ogilvy topped her pink, blue and green lace dress with a pink straw button percher trimmed in a mass of circular pink ruffles. It’s a lighthearted hat that tops a very pastel ensemble but it’s great fun.

Embed from Getty Images
Embed from Getty Images

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: June 13, 2015June 5, 2012

Flora Ogilvy wore an ecru straw disc percher trimmed with a multi-looped bow and silk rose on the side. A great hat on its own, this piece was elevated with its pairing today with Flora’s orchid purple dress. Such a great look for her.

Embed from Getty Images

View this post on Instagram

❤️💗

A post shared by Z E N O U S K A M O W A T T (@zenouska1) on

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: 

Zenouska Mowatt paired her red lace dress with a red straw vertical saucer hat, trimmed with wide ruffles of layered red and peach crin. The scale is fantastic on her and the playful crin ruffles add such life to the hat (as do her bright yellow accessories!).

View this post on Instagram

💒

A post shared by Z E N O U S K A M O W A T T (@zenouska1) on

Designer: bespoke Jane Taylor. Dress by Mary Katrantzou
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The royal Kent relations can usually be counted on for some memorable millinery looks and today was no different. Which hats stand out here most to you?

Photos from Getty as indicated; Pool, Victoria Jones and Chris Jackson via Getty; Tim Rooke/Shutterstock; Stephen Lock/i Images;Stephen Lock/i Images;

Sunday Church Outing at Sandringham

Queen Elizabeth attended Sunday morning service this morning at the Church of St. Mary Magdalene on the Sandringham estate. For this outing, she repeated her royal purple felt hat with square crown, upfolded kettle brim and dark purple velvet hatband with updated dark purple silk flower trim.

Embed from Getty Images
The connection between hat and coat has always been a good one, thanks to the dark velvet trim on both pieces, but many of us had qualms about the previous white silk iris trim. Swapping out the white irises for these dark blooms pulls the hat back into harmony with the ensemble and lends a lovely note of luxury to the design through the layered textures of felt, velvet and silk.

Designer: Angela Kelly
Previously Worn: Oct 23, 2018Mar 6, 2018Dec 7, 2017Nov 24, 2016
The Queen was joined by the Earl of Snowdon and Countess of Snowdon and Lady Helen Taylor. Serena sported a deep purple felt, formed beret while Helen wore a large, brimless hat in caramel felt with domed top. I don’t believe either hat has been seen publicly before.
Embed from Getty Images
I give the Queen’s hat renovation a thumbs up- what do you think?
Photos from Getty as indicated

York Royal Wedding: Gloucesters and Kents

We turn our attention now to hats worn by members of the Gloucester and Kent families. First up is a millinery disguise of sorts from the Duchess of Gloucester who repeated her much worn straw taupe blocked beret hat (with stem). The hat is a familiar one and its outing today, wrapped in a swath of red net veil (I assume, to coordinate with her suit?) is unexpected and, dare I say, a bit odd. I love millinery experiments but in this case, I think this  would have been best left in its original form.


Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Peter Jones
Previously Worn: Jul 10, 2018;  Mar 9, 2017Jun 18, 2015Jun 15, 2015Nov 6, 2013Jun 19, 2013Jun 5, 2012
Lady Helen Taylor topped her intricately embroidered frock with a blue bandeau headpiece
Embed from Getty Images
Designer: unknown- likely Stephen Jones

Previously Worn: I believe this is new

Zenouska Mowatt topped her bright pink midi length dress with a dark purple felt hat trimmed with an organza ruffle in the same pink as her dress. The colour mix of this ensemble is unexpected but the more I see it, the more I really like it. It’s a brave combinations of colours and materials not usually put together and makes a bold and very brave look for Zenouska.


Designer: Jane Taylor
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Princess Michael of Kent repeated her angular, pale grey pillbox with dramatic ostrich feather plume around the back.

Embed from Getty Images
Embed from Getty Images

Designer: John Boyd
Previously Worn: June 13, 2015;  Oct 18, 2014 ; Jun 16, 2014

Lady Frederick, whose young daughter Maud was one of the wee bridesmaids, paired her elegant aqua dress and coat with a wide, white ‘slice’ saucer hat trimmed with aqua ostrich feathers and dotted white tulle wrapped around the central crown of the hat. 


Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Hat, dress and coat all by Catherine Walker
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Gabriella Windsor was a vision in blue, topping her cereulean dress with a deep peacock(or cobalt?) felt hat with off-centered, peaked crown and gently sideswept brim. The shades of blue are not ones often paired together but, like Zenouska’s ensemble, work surprisingly really well. The turquoise earrings and pale blue clutch add other blue notes to the ensemble that contrast (rather than match), making for an interesting and unexpected ensemble that Gabriella wears, brilliantly. Hers is the next British royal wedding and I can’t wait to see her bridal style.



Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress by Claire Mischevani
Previously Worn: This hat is new
Some of my favourite royal millinery looks from today’s wedding are found within this group- do any of these hats stand out to you as well?
Photos from Getty as indicated

Trooping The Colour: Gloucester & Kent Families

We conclude our look at the hats seen Saturday for Trooping the Colour with those worn by members of the Gloucester and Kent families. It’s always wonderful to see the Duchess of Kent at this event and rather disappointing there is not a better view of her hat to share. It looks to be a lavender pillbox, likely in straw, trimmed with a large spray of face-framing feathers on the side.

June 9, 2018 | Royal Hats

UPDATE- thanks to avid royal watcher and photographer Paul Ratcliffe for sharing this photo of the Duchess, just for us! This view confirms her hat is a high lavender textured straw bandeau, with feather trim framing the right side of her face. The colour is lovely on Katharine and the bandeau style suits her bobbed haircut really well. It’s a fresh and modern headpiece that proves cutting edge style is possible at any age!


Designer: I believe it is Jane Taylor
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Helen Taylor repeated the white homberg crowned ht with upswept brim and navy bow trim we saw her wear to this event last year, with an added red and fuchsia hued silk flower on the front of the hat. The addition of this flower transforms the hat (hiding the distinctive crown shape makes it appear to be a different style) and firmly ties the colour palate to Helen’s fuchsia printed dress. Seeing this transformation makes me wonder why we don’t see such minor millinery renovations on more royal hats! Helen’s sister-in-law, Lady Nicholas Windsor, wore a dusky pink straw button based percher hat trimmed with large silk roses and dotted net tulle veil.

June 9, 2018 | Royal Hats

Designer of Helen’s hat: Stephen Jones
Previously Worn:  June 17, 2017
Designer of Paola’s hat: unknown
Previously Worn: I believe this is new

Lady Helen’s younger daughter, Estella Taylor, seen below on the far right, wore a button based cocktail hat in natural straw, trimmed with cream, ecru and grey fabric rosettes and a grey net tulle veil.

Embed from Getty Images
Embed from Getty Images

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: I believe this is new

While Princess Alexandra and the Duchess of Gloucester were in attendance, they did not appear in any photographs.

UPDATE- Again, avid royal watcher and photographer Paul Ratcliffe comes to our rescue! My deepest thanks to Paul for posting these photos just for our benefit! Princess Alexandra repeated her dove grey straw with tall, flat crown and cartwheel brim trimmed with a large straw knotted bow and a swath of dotted net tulle overlaying the hat’s brim. The Duchess of Gloucester repeated her black pillbox with new addition of a black tulle veil.


Designer of Alexandra’s hat: Rachel Trevor Morgan
Previously Worn: June 6, 2009 and likely others
Designer of Brigitte’s hat: unknown. My guess is Lock and Co.
Previously Worn: March 19, 2013June 20, 2011Oct 9, 2009June 03, 2006

Lady Rose Gilham was also in attendance on the Buckingham Palace balcony this year in a slate blue-grey vertical saucer hat trimmed with a bow and feathers.

June 9, 2018 | Royal Hats

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: I believe this is new

Julia Ogilvy, who recently graduated from the Harvard Divinity School, paired her dotted grey dress with a tall grey straw stovepipe hat with cartwheel brim trimmed with an exquisite spray of straw roses and leaves. Flora Ogilvy repeated the wide brimmed cream straw picture hat with square crown and large, layered side bow that she seems to have permanently appropriated from her mother’s millinery closet! And no wonder, as it’s a wonderful, classic and clearly versatile hat.

June 9, 2018 | Royal Hats

Designer of Julia’s hat: unknown
Previously Worn: I believe this is new
Designer of Flora’s hat: unknown
Previously Worn: June 17, 2017June 11, 2016; originally worn by Julia June 15, 2006

Zenouska Mowatt topped her vibrant pink, lilac, orange and white patterned dress with a textured white straw beret percher hat trimmed with curling white feathers and a pink and orange straw knotted flying bow. There’s a lot of texture going on in this piece and while I really like its idiosyncratic creativity, I’m not convinced it complements or relates enough with the dress to work well together.

Designer:  Jane Taylor. Dress from Dhela

Previously Worn: This hat is new

Princess Michael of Kent used the occasion to début a new hat. In almond straw, the design features a flat crown and wide, cartwheel brim and is simply trimmed with a wide straw hatband. Marie-Christine favours dramatic millinery statements and this one feels surprisingly sedate and traditional for her. It’s another versatile piece I think we’ll see again many times in years to come. 

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn:This hat is new

Lady Frederick Windsor topped her beautifully cut suit with an ecru straw vertical saucer hat trimmed with a cream feather lotus flower and slim, curling straw tails. The steep diagonal lines of the hat work so well with the similar line on the hem of Sophie’s jacket. This is not a hat I’d be drawn to on its own but with this suit, forms a really lovely ensemble.

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Siggi Hats. It is S18-459 from SS 2018. Suit from Catherine Walker
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Lady Gabriella Windsor wore a cream straw hat with angular crown and gently sideswept brim, trimmed with straw twists and a handful of white silk sweet peas. It’s a style, scale and colour of hat we’ve seen often on Gabriella but one that she carries so well. The open neck of her blue coat dress is a particularly effective compliment to the lines of the hat and the two pieces join to create a beautifully balanced look.

Designer: Philip Treacy. It is OC 475 from SS 2018. Coat by Claire Mischevani
Previously Worn: This hat is new
Trooping the Colour is always a highlight in our royal hat watching calendar and this year was no different! I’m curious, dear readers, which hats stood out most to you?
Embed from Getty Images
Photos from Getty as indicated; James Devaney and James Devaney via Getty; Mark Stewart and Paul Ratcliffe via Twitter

Windsor Wedding, Thirty Years On

 Thirty years ago yesterday, the Duke and Duchess of Kent’s eldest son, George Windsor, Earl of St. Andrews, was married to Canadian professor Sylvana Tomaselli. At the time of the nuptials, the bride was Catholic and divorced, issues which prevented a church wedding and caused the Earl to give up his rights of succession (thankfully, times have changed).  As such, a civil wedding was required and the young couple married in Scotland.

We don’t see many British royal weddings where the bride is not in a gown and veil but the unique circumstances at the time of this one made the bride opt for a suit and hat. Sylvana topped her royal blue dotted velvet suit and muff with a matching hat in matching silk. The tall, upfolded bumper brim gave the design a relaxed Cossack shape and the hat was simply trimmed with a large button in the same dotted velvet as Sylvana’s suit. The pieces combined to give a glamorous winter ensemble with luxurious texture and beautiful sheen.

Embed from Getty Images
The Duchess of Kent went with a more traditionally shaped Cossack style hat in crimson, trimmed with wide black velvet ribbon piping and a giant bow at the back (perhaps anchored to her hair, below the hat?). Lady Helen Windsor, as was her title at the time, was also in red and black- her red cloche variation was trimmed with black brim piping and a wide velvet hatband and bow. 

Embed from Getty Images  Embed from Getty Images

Barely visible at the far left of the photo below, Princess Alexandra looked to be wearing a brown fur papakha style hat. On the far right, Princess Michael of Kent wore an oversize, angular black brimless hat (perhaps also a modified Cossack shape?) with bow. 

In combination, these hats always seemed like a technicolor Russian winter fantasy to me. We don’t often see tall Cossack shapes on royal heads, making this group all the more memorable. Thirty years on, what do you think of these hats?
Photos from Getty as indicated