Hawaiian Royal Hats Part III: Bayonet Constitution and Illegal Overthrow

We continue with the third installment of a series on Hawaiian royal hats today by longtime reader Jake Short. You can find Jake on Instagram or Twitter and can link back to any of his previous guests posts at the bottom. Thanks, Jake for this fascinating series!

Bayonet Constitution

While Queen Kapi‘olani and sister Princess Lili‘uokalani were in Europe attending Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1887, King Kalākaua faced more dire circumstances. The Hawaiian League (a secret society that formed in early 1887 with the purpose of annexing Hawaii to the United States) and American businessmen controlled a vast majority of the Hawaiian Kingdom’s wealth at the time. On  June 30, 1887, the Honolulu Rifles (white soldiers who had become the secret military arm of the Hawaiian League) and Reformed Party politicians joined forces, demanding that King Kalākaua dismiss his loyal Cabinet and endorse a new constitution stripping him of his personal authority and transferring power to the legislature and cabinet of the government.


Pre-1874 portrait of King Kalākaua

King Kalākaua found himself with no choice but to comply with these demands. Within a week, a new constitution was drafted by lawyers all associated with the Hawaiian League. The king signed it on July 6, 1887 under duress (multiple sources suggest he genuinely believed his life was in danger if he did not) but it was never ratified in the Hawaiian legislature. Because of the force used to gain Kalākaua’s cooperation, it became widely known as the “Bayonet Constitution.”

The Bayonet Constitution allowed the Hawaiian monarch to appoint a cabinet but placed that cabinet under the sole authority of the legislature. It also required any executive actions of the monarch receive cabinet approval. Voting rights were denied to naturalized Asians and vastly restricted for many native Hawaiians, leaving power in the hands of American and European men, most of whom were already profiting greatly from their business interests on the island kingdom.

Illegal Overthrow

In late 1890, King Kalākaua traveled to California, officially for health reasons but possibly also for further political negotiations with the United States. 

Already unwell, he died on January 20 ,1891 and his sister Lili‘uokalani succeeded him as Hawai‘i’s first Queen Regnant. Queen Lili‘uokalani is among the most photographed hatted Hawaiian royals.

In the first year of her reign she toured all the islands in the Kingdom. During a visit to Waimānalo on O‘ahu, she and her retinue wore a variation of the feminine boater popular at the end of the Victorian era.

In an undated photograph, she wears a beautiful pleated fabric hat with ostrich feather trim. 

A learned intellectual and effective governmental leader, Lili‘uokalani was also a composer of at least 165 songs, the most famous being “Aloha ‘Oe”. You can listen to it here

In early 1893, Queen Lili‘uokalani tried to overrule the Bayonet Constitution with the introduction of a new constitution that would restore the power of the monarchy and voting rights of the economically disenfranchised. Threatened by this, the pro-American Western elites, bolstered by the landing of US Marines to protect American interests, overthrew the monarchy on January 17,1893.

Despite U.S. President Cleveland’s administration’s conclusion that the overthrow was illegal and condemnation of the use of U.S. troops in the takeover, the Republic of Hawai‘i was declared on July 4, 1894. Six months later, a rebellion was launched with the aim of restoring the queen and the monarchy. Its failure led to the arrest of many of the participants and monarchist sympathizers, including the queen herself. Imprisoned in an upstairs bedroom at Iolani Palace, she creatively broke through the embargo of political information around her by requesting daily hula performances. She was granted this seemingly innocent request, her captors oblivious to the updates and information conveyed to her each day through the dance! 

On January 24, 1895 Queen Liliʻuokalani abdicated her throne in return for the release (and commutation of the death sentences) of her jailed supporters, officially ending the deposed monarchy. The Hawaiian League met their ultimate goal in 1898 when the republic was annexed by the U.S.;  the territory became the 50th U.S. state in 1959.

In the years after her overthrow, Queen Lili‘uokalani dressed like most of her contemporaries in the late Victoria and Edwardian fashions of the day.  

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King Kalākaua’s order of succession decreed Lili‘uokalani’s successor was to be his niece, Princess Victoria Ka‘iulani.

Ka‘iulani traveled to the U.K. in 1889 at age 13 to pursue a British education in the hopes it would better prepare her to become queen. During her studies abroad, news of her aunt’s deposition arrived and Crown Princess Ka‘iulani traveled to the U.S. to draw support of her Kingdom’s independence. Her education, articulation, and fashionable appearance endeared her to many despite the heavily racist attitudes of the time.

Her efforts were unfortunately in vain and she returned to Europe for a few more years of study before traveling home to Hawai‘i in 1897. As a way to help secure the line of succession for future generations,Queen Lili‘uokalani asked Princess Ka‘iulani to marry one of three men: Prince David Kawānanakoa, Prince Jonah Kūhiō, or Prince Komatsu Akihito (half-brother of Prince Higashifushimi Yorihito, who King Kalākaua tried to arrange a marriage with in 1881). Ka‘iulani chose Prince David Kawānanakoa but sadly, she died at age 23 in 1899 before they married.

Here is an excellent overview of Queen Lili‘uokalani’s life and reign (featuring lots of great Hawaiians hats!)

Thank you Jake, for another insightful installment in this series and this look at the very unfortunate end of this royal house. 

Jake returns next Wednesday with the fourth installment in this series. His previous guest posts at Royal Hats include: 

Hawaiian Royal Hats Part I   
Hawaiian Royal Hats Part II: World Tour and Golden Jubilee
Men’s Royal Hats
Royal Men’s Hats: Fedoras and Trilbys
Royal Men’s Hats: Caps and Berets
Royal Men’s Hats: Pork Pies, Hombergs, Boaters, Bowlers and the Rest
Recommend Hat Repeats for  Queen Elizabeth
Recommend Hat Repeats for Queen Máxima Part I and Part II
Recommend Hat Repeats for Queen Margrethe
Recommend Hat Repeats for Queen Mathilde

Images from Getty and social media as indicated; photo collection of Queen Liliuokalani

Milestone Birthday: Queen Máxima

Queen Máxima celebrates a half century of life today, a milestone that requires a dive into her millinery closet to look at some of her many memorable hats:

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There’s such diversity of shape, scale, colour and style in Máxima’s millinery wardrobe, and I’m sure you join me not only in wishing her a happy birthday, but in thanking her for the courage and willingness to experiment that makes it so fun to follow her hats.

This Week’s Extras

Last weekend, Crown Prince Haakon took part in a ceremony commemorating the anniversary of the liberation of Norway.
The following new millinery designs caught my eye last week:
Exquisite wired headpiece with pearls by South Korean milliner Eun Young Lee
White bandeaux with statement ombre flying bows by British milliner Sara Cant
Black & white floral cotton sunhat recycled from a 1970s dress by Norwegian milliner Ellen Thommessen
Beautiful silk flowers on this yellow and ivory bergère by UK Brand Angharad Rose Millinery
Turbans don’t usually enthrall me but this green one from US brand Art of Hats Studio is a Wow!
A blue and pewter wide brimmed stunner from London-based milliner Philip Treacy
Orange leather beret percher with felt ruffle and red quills by Australian milliner Melanie Atherinos
Adore the berry hues on this woven straw fedora by British milliner Tracey Miller
Fantastic Harris tweed hat appliquéd with vintage Kashmiri hand embroidery from British milliner Sara Colacicco
Ecru parasisal halo brimmed hat with blue guipure lace flowers by Australian milliner Irene Moore
Dramatic goth statement from British milliner Edwina Ibbotsen with a wide brimmed black hat edged in giant rolled roses
Lilac knotted silk abaca bandeau with flowers by Welsh brand Madog Millinery
Plum velvet teardrop percher with beautiful silk flowers by Russian milliner Anna Andrienko
Dutch milliner Wies Mauduit takes the newsboy cap to new heights with this sunny design with ribbon trimmed crown

While chatting with the Royal Life Saving Society, Queen Elizabeth recalled passing life saving training 80 years ago!
New portraits of Queen Máxima were released in lead up to her 50th birthday tomorrow, all taken by King Willem-Alexander. And yes- we’re going to celebrate her birthday tomorrow with a look at some of her millinery whoppers!
Prince Harry’s guest appearance on a popular American podcast to talk about mental health is well worth a listen (be warned of sensitive/triggering material and some coarse language).

Images from social media as indicated 

Confirmation of Danish Prince

Prince Christian of Denmark was confirmed yesterday at Fredensborg Castle Church in a small service attended by close friends and family who live in the area.  

Crown Princess Mary wore a new hat for the occasion. In royal blue straw, the beret base shape is trimmed with large silk calla lily flowers and wired leaves.

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Mary placed the hat on the back of her head, leaving the flowers and leaves sweeping forward over her forehead. This placement makes sense of the long leaves – the way the leaves and flowers frame Mary’s face like a bandeau really works. The piece pairs well with her navy dotted dress to make a stylish look that doesn’t stands up well without standing out and I’m sure many of you will notice Mary’s sapphire brooch is the same one worn for Christian’s christening. I always love such sweet, sentimental touches.

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Designer: Susanne Juul. Dress by Iris & Ink
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Queen Margrethe also wore a new hat for this milestone, a bright pink beret simply trimmed with a large side twist.

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Margrethe wears vibrant colour well and after our recent look at her pink hats, it’s great to see her add another. Yes, the whole ensemble is a rather punchy hit of colour but it feels very authentic to Margrethe’s style. Like everything we’ve seen from Mathilde Førster’s studio, this hat is impeccably made- I’m unable to find a single waver or pucker on that beautifully sewn edge on the twist.

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Like many families, the event was celebrated on a smaller scale than originally planned (and held a year after originally scheduled!).  As such, it was lovely to see both Queen Margrethe and Crown Princess Mary bring a greater sense of celebration to the occasion with the debut of new hats.

What do you think of this new pair of berets yesterday in Denmark?

Images from Getty and social media as indicated

Hat From the Past

Royal Hats to a vibrant yellow hat worn thirty years ago today on a visit to the USA. The unusual upfolded brim design was by Marie O’Regan for Ian Thomas.

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Photos from Getty as indicated