Category Archives: Ascot

Royal Ascot Day 5: The Phillipses

Posted on by

Royal Hats

I’m delighted to be joined today by Spanish milliner Rafa Peinador, creator of his namesake London-based millinery brand, to chat about all of the royal hats (and some others!) we see today on the final day Royal Ascot.

Autumn Philips chose blue for her last Ascot outing this year in a jumpsuit and hat described by the milliner as  a “hand-made straw medium sized saucer hat, trimmed with two silk satin roses with feather accents.”

Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: My goodness- it’s our favourite royal hat from Ascot last year (which ultimately went on to be named our top new hat of 2018) but in blue!

Rafa Peinador: Autumn Phillips was wearing a nice saucer hat with silk satin flowers and feathers placed between petals. The hat perfectly matched the colour of the outfit. I would say that the chess effect on the sinamay is absolutely gorgeous and very tasteful. The incorporation of the feathers in the roses made it look different from a lot of similar hats seen in last few days. I would have incorporated a cream or ivory element to accentuate the chess pattern.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: Great idea, Rafa- some cream flowers would be a great compliment and lend quiet contrast to the all blue look. Although, I like this all-blue look- the textured hat is the perfect pairing with Autumn’s solid colour jumpsuit and works far better than a solid hued hat would. The scale and shape are great on her and the colour, well, it’s terrific. The patterned straw lends a beautiful lightness and airiness to the look. So fresh and summery

Embed from Getty Images

Designer: Sally-Ann Provan. It is a bespoke version of the Greta Saucer Hat. Bespoke Claire Mischevani jumpsuit.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Peter Phillips repeated his black felt top hat.

Embed from Getty Images

What do you think of Autumn’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 5: The Queen

Posted on by

Royal Hats

I’m so pleased to welcome Spanish milliner Rafa Peinador, creator of his namesake London-based millinery brand, to share his thoughts on all of the royal hats we see today on the final day Royal Ascot!  

The cream straw hat follows the split crown design used on several other Kelly/McLaren designs, the same silk wool as the Queen’s coat wrapping half of the hat’s tall crown and edging the short brim. The hat is trimmed simply with a spray of silk orchids and a slim green bow at the side.

Embed from Getty Images

Rafa Peinador: Her Majesty the Queen today went back to softer colours and a more classic shape. It was a very safe option which is in line with the hats she normally wears. I love the way the pale green fabric, with a white  “marble effect” has been incorporated in the edge of the brim. I am not very keen on the use of the fabric in the crown. It would have preferred for the whole crown to be covered with the fabric or a maybe used as a ribbon like trimming around the base of the crown.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: The hat radiates spring from its colour and light floral trim. So fresh! I think the hat would look crisper and more refined if the brim binding was slimmer- it’s a little clunky. Same for the fabric crown wrap, even though it’s an interesting design feature unique to Kelly/McLaren hats.

Embed from Getty Images

Rafa Peinador: I love the combination of white, green and yellow used for the flowers. The green piping holding the flowers simulating the stems is very clever. However I am not very keen on the yellow buds, they look too artificial. I would have preferred bespoke hand made flowers.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: I’m coming away from Ascot this year with a new awareness, understanding and appreciation for hand made flowers, thanks to all our guest milliners have shared about them this week. They certainly are a cut above (pun intended!).

Designer: Angela Kelly made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn: March 28, 2019; April 21, 2016

The Queen was accompanied by the Duke of York in his black antique silk top hat.

Embed from Getty Images

What do you think of Her Majesty’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 4: The Yorks

Posted on by

Royal Hats

I’m so fortunate to be joined today by Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to chat about today’s royal hats at Ascot!  

The Duchess of York topped a sunshine yellow dress with a teal velvet headpiece trimmed with peacock feathers and finely dotted net veil. The milliner notes that the hat is partially upcycled from a vintage piece.

Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Lauren Ritchie: Jess Collett has made some wonderful pieces for the Duchess of York! 

Royal Hats:  I’m really liking their ongoing collaboration. It has really elevated Sarah’s hats!

Lauren Ritchie: I really enjoy the combination of the radiant yellow and jade peacock but would have put her in the same coloured shoes instead of the purple. The green accessories of bag, clutch and gloves are a well considered combination.

Embed from Getty Images

Lauren Ritchie: I’m unsure of how this hat was designed to be worn. My first reaction is I would like to pull it firmly down over her right eye, moving the plumes to be more central on her head to add height but then looking from other angles,  the hat also looks somewhat turban-like but moved forward on the head, treated more like a button. It is a playful combination of styles.  

Royal Hats: I think different placement on the head would help! The colour blocking is fun and Sarah wears green SO well. The headpiece base has an interesting shape that I like- it’s open without he doughnut look of a completely open circle. I’m just not sure about the styling here- does the velvet  headpiece and purse work with the light, sunny, summer dress? I don’t know.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: I’m intrigued by this shape, Lauren- how would you go about blocking an interwoven piece like this? What finishing challenges does a shape like this bring?

Lauren Ritchie: For a piece constructed in this way, all of the finishing would need to occur underneath.  It is a bit of an illusion-  it could be two pieces that are constructed in full, finished parts and then interlocked together to form the final shape or it could be a pillbox shape that has been cut into and wrapped around itself. Either way, the base material would need to be very sturdy to support the weight of this material. 

Royal Hats: Thanks, Lauren. Your explanation is helping me realize how impeccably it is constructed. I can’t remember other royal hats that have included upcycled parts from a vintage hat and this is wonderful to see here. I’d love to see more upcycled and recycled royal hats!

Designer: Jess Collett
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Duke of York again looked dapper in his elegant black antique silk top hat.

Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

What do you think of the Duchess’ hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Royal Ascot Day 4: The Taylors

Posted on by

Royal Hats

It’s my pleasure to be joined today by Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to chat about today’s royal hats at Ascot!   

Lady Helen Taylor joined the Queen in her carriage for today’s arrival in a dusky pink teardrop percher with dramatic pleated pouf and birdcage in net veil.

Embed from Getty Images Embed from Getty Images

Lauren Ritchie: Contrasting bows have been a feature in Ascot outfits this year.  The contrasting and vibrant orange is the feature of this dress and it accessorised very well. The covered beret with draped tulle compliments the outfit and adds its own dramatic element of height without fighting for your eyes attention.  

Royal Hats: Agreed! This hat does  a great job of blending with the ensemble (and letting that orange bow sing!) while the tall tulle trim enables the design to hold its own.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: Lauren, what can you tell us about working with veiling net, such as an amount like this, on a hat? Does it require stiffening? What challenges come with working with this material?

Lauren Ritchie: Veilings can naturally be quite stiff, natural silk veilings respond well to steam and will hold their shape.  Sometimes a veil can require a light stiffener such as hairspray and it is easy to spray once the veiling has been arranged.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: Hairspray?! That’s a surprise but it makes sense!

Lauren Ritchie:The cuts to the veil on Helen’s hat are clever with the pointed edge, leaving the tip light so it does not fall under its own weight. Holding it in place requires the use of tie tacks which are done in either a matching or clear thread. 

Designer: Unconfirmed. Helen’s hats usually come from Stephen Jones.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

Helen’s husband, Timothy Taylor, and Peter Phillips rounded out the first carriage. The men both wore black felt top hats- some of the better felt designs we’ve seen on royal heads, I think.

Embed from Getty Images

What do you think of Lady Helen’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Royal Ascot Day 4: Queen Elizabeth

Posted on by

I’m so happy to welcome Lauren Ritchie, creator of Melbourne-based Lauren J. Ritchie Millinery, to share her thoughts on all of the royal hats we see today on the fourth day of Royal Ascot!  

Queen Elizabeth wore her fourth new hat of this year’s racing event, in bright pink. The modified cloche shape features a squared brim and is covered in the same textured fabric as the ensemble’s matching coat. An oversize ostrich feather, dyed in the same hue, wraps diagonally around the side of the crown to complete the design.

Embed from Getty Images

Royal Hats: Does anyone wear this shade of pink better than the Queen?!

Lauren Ritchie: This is a striking colour that beautifully contrasts the softer tones Her Majesty wore throughout the rest of the week.  The feathers add a lovely texture to the piece. 

Royal Hats: Lauren, how is a large ostrich feather like this one, affixed to a hat such as this? I suspect it is sewn down the middle spine, leaving the upper feather wisps free to move but what can you tell us about the joy (and challenge!) of working with these types of feathers?

Embed from Getty Images

Lauren Ritchie: One option is the ostrich feather can be stitched down through the spine with the use of a straw needle and thimble.  Moving through sideways the spine, not up and down, there would be around three secure stitches along the point of the spine. It is a challenge not to catch the soft plumes in stitches as they are difficult to control and keep out to the way while working.

Royal Hats: I can imagine! I’m a bit torn on this hat. The colour is fantastic and I like how the feather trim partially hides that the hat is covered in the same textured fabric as the Queen’s coat but… as expertly as it has been treated, it seems a little messy. It takes additional time and skill to make a beautiful fabric covered hat but I wonder, if with this ensemble, something in dyed straw might feel lighter and more summery?

Embed from Getty Images

Lauren Ritchie: While I do agree that the beautiful work of making a fabric covered hat with the highly skilled under brim finish is covered by the plumes, a different material would add yet another texture to an already full outfit with the contrasting patterned dress underneath.

Designer: Angela Kelly, made by Stella McLaren
Previously Worn:  This hat is new

What do you think of the Queen’s hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated