Abdication Marks Start of Reiwa Era

The 30-year Heisei reign officially ended today with the abdication of Emperor Akihito. The abdication ceremony was held in the Imperial Palace in Tokyo.


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Crown Princess Masako looked radiant in an exquisite new hat. The design features a domed crown covered in pearlescent silk and a lace covered bumper brim- the same scroll patterned lace as was on her gown. The hat shape works well with the high collared gown and the pieces combine to make an elegant and very regal look.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: This hat news

Princess Kiko repeated a bumper hat in palest celery green silk. The raised brim is overlaid in the same lace as on Kiko’s gown. I prefer Kiko in more saturated colours but it’s not surprising to see her in a pale hue for such high profile events. The lace overlay on the hat’s brim provides a lovely, textural frame around Kiko’s face.


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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: December 23, 2014

Princess Mako repeated a cuffed calot hat covered in the same ice blue floral printed jacquard silk as her gown. The blue silk flowers that adorned this hat at its first outing are visible in the photo below.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: January 15, 2016

Princess Kako repeated a royal blue bumper hat with brim edge embroidered with the same royal blue bugle beads that trim the basque waist of her gown.

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: January 10, 2015

Princess Hanako wore a pillbox hat with domed crown, wrapped in a pleated silk wrap (or bumper brim?) and trimmed with a multi-looped bow. I believe this hat is new (the gown was paired, at its last outing, with a different hat). Princess Hisako repeated the deep purple bumper hat with ostrich feather pouf at the back we last saw her wear at the 2015 New Year’s Poetry Readings. Princess Tsuguko repeated the burgundy silk covered beret she wore for the 30th anniversary celebration of the emperor’s reign back in February. This view shows lavish floral and feather trim on the side of the design and a burgundy net veil that, I suspect, swaths the entire hat.

Princess Yoko topped her mint green silk gown with a matching veiled percher hat worn at a wonderfully rakish angle on the side of her head. The ensemble has a vintage, 1940s vibe to it that she wears very well. Princess Akiko repeated her lime-yellow silk gown with matching bumper hat with what looks like inlaid silk stripes on the side of the raised brim. Princess Nobuko paired her pale sage green silk gown with a matching brimless hat trimmed with a large ecru silk flower and veil. Princess Yuriko (Yoko and Akiko’s grandmother) repeated her deep eggplant purple, low profile bumper hat with bow at the back.

The Imperial royals know how to do retrained, elegant looks better than any other royal house and today was no exception. You can watch highlights of today’s abdication ceremony here along with commentary and an interesting overview of the Emperor’s life (start at 12:00). In recent days, NHK World also broadcast a 3-part documentary on Emperor Emeritus Akihito that I found informative, enjoyable and highly recommend:

Part I: Emperor of A Defeated Nation
Part 2: The Two Of Us
Part 3: The Symbol Of A Nation

The Reiwa reign of Emperor Naruhito began at the stroke of midnight (Japanese time) on May 1. His enthronement ceremony will follow tomorrow.

Photos from Getty as indicated; Kyodo News, Kyodo News and Kyodo News via Getty; NHK World

Emperor’s Final Ceremony At Three Palace Sanctuaries

After thirty years on the Chrysanthem Throne, Emperor Akihito’s reign came to a peaceful close today with a series of ceremonies. The day began with the Emperor paying respects at the Three Palace Sanctuaries at the Imperial Palace grounds in Tokyo. The shrine is the sanctuary of Amaterasu-omikami, the legendary sun goddess from whom the imperial line is said to have descended.

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For this “Taiirei-Tojitsu-Kashikodokoro-Omae-no-gi” ceremony, Emperor Akihito was dressed in the traditional “sokutai” outfit that only Imperial royals may wear. The sokutai centers around a voluminous draped outer robe with long, wide sleeves and a cinched waist; only the emperor may wear brown while other royals wear other colours, depending on their title. The robe often includes bird motifs (birds were considered divine envoys in ancient times) and the silk of the emperor’s robe is woven with a mythological Chinese phoenix to symbolize the arrival of peace.

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Topping the sokutai is the black “kanmuri” hat which consists of a flat, pillbox-like base and a towering, monochrome patterned tail at the back. For the ceremony, the emperor and other male royals carry a “shaku”- narrow, embellished wooden plate-like scepter.

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In this ceremony, Emperor Akihito read the “otsugebumi,” an explanation, that he would be taking part in a an abdication ceremony to pass the Chrysanthemum Throne to his eldest son, Crown Prince Naruhito. Akihito also read out the document at two other sanctuaries on the Imperial Palace grounds that honor past emperors and other Shinto gods.

Japanese media reported that that ten other imperial family members also donned traditional dress for this ceremony at the three sanctuaries. Photographs of this are not publicly available, although there are shots of the Akishino family arriving at the Imperial Palace. Princess Kiko, Princess Mako and Princess Kako all wore ivory silk covered bumper hats.

Special thanks to Prisma for sharing resources (including this article) explaining today’s traditional clothing.

Photos from Getty as indicated; The Asahi Shimbun and Kyodo News via Getty

This Week’s Extras

Last Friday, April 5, Princess Beatrice visited the Helen Arkell Dyslexia Centre in a black leather bandeau headpiece. While it looks eerily similar to one recently worn by her sister, the two pieces are different (the central knot on this bandeau is visibly bigger).

On Wednesday, members of the Imperial Royal Family visited the Emperor and Empress to offer congratulations on their 60th wedding anniversary. All the princesses were in hats- Crown Princess Masako in a repeated cream pleated bumper; Princesses Kiko, Mako and Kako in cuffed calot hats; Princess Hanako in a pink brimmed hat with ruffled feather trim; and Princess Yuriko in a green silk covered bumper hat with side flower.
 
Princess Nobuko repeated a green silk bumper hat with lace covered crown and Princess Akiko wore a yellow silk bumper hat previously worn by Princess Hanako. Princess Yoko repeated her peach textured pillbox, Princess Tsuguko repeated her peach silk bumper with pleated leaf motif around the outside brim and Princess Hisako repeated a royal blue silk ensemble with bumper hat.

King Carl Gustaf in his trusty fedora on Thursday for a visit to a solar farm
Crown Princess Mette-Marit shared these snaps of her family enjoying a day out skiing
The Cambridges were spotted at Burnham Market international horse trials in Norfolk where they joined Mike and Mia Tindall to watch Zara compete. Prince William sported a natty flat cap.
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Princess Charlene was at the Turffontein Racecourse in Johannesburg, South Africa yesterday to attend her namesake race day annual event. She topped her royal blue dress and bolero jacket by Terrence Bray with a black floral and crin fascinator
Rachel Trevor Morgan, Noel Stewart and Edwina Ibbotson have curated a hat exhibition ‘Unveiled- The Craft of Millinery’ that will be open May 8-12 in London (May 8-10 at the Artworkers Guild and May 11-12 at Fenwick of Bond Street). Featuring the work of 14 milliners, the exhibition will also include workshops and a curators talk you can register to attend here. Also launched this week was this year’s Royal Ascot Millinery Collective. So lovely to see an Australian milliner (Jill Humphries of Jill and Jack Millinery in Melbourne) included in this year’s lineup!
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The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:
Autumnal orange felt sidesweep with fantastic feathers by Australian milliner Neil Grigg
Luxuriously smooth lines on this pale pink leather percher with bow by British milliner Fi Graham
Whimsical wired floral black headpiece of dotted net by Australian milliner Lisa Hughes
Eye catching oversize purple straw saucer with orange straw twists by UK brand Rebecca Couture Millinery
Love the classic 50s vibe on Jane Taylor’s white straw and black patent braided pyramid hat
Adore the movement on this royal blue feather headpiece from Melbourne-based Jill and Jack Millinery
Punchy black and citrus yellow scheme on this floral trimmed black straw percher by British milliner Jess Collett
Beautiful cream straw sidesweep with golden peach flying bow by British milliner Vivien Sheriff
Orange straw fez with orange & fuchsia sleek square flowers by Irish brand Martha Lynn Millinery
Bold navy felt halo headband with pinwheel bloom and curling quills by UK brand Hatonista Millinery

And from British milliner Natasha Mobey, this wonderfully creative handwoven basket of straw folded cranes, created for London Hat Week.

This summer’s special exhibit at Buckingham Palace focuses on Queen Victoria’s reign with a wonderful look at pieces from the 1851 Stuart Ball.
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Lovely portrait of Princess Ariane released Wednesday for her 12th birthday

Photos from FNN; The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun, The Asahi Shimbun

This Week’s Extras

More casual hats on Princess Anne and Zara Tindall last weekend at the Gatcombe Horse Trials
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Queen Elizabeth repeated her textured cream and gold split crown hat with black and gold feather trim last Sunday to attend church at The Royal Chapel of All Saints in Windsor Great Park. Interesting to note that this hat, made under the Angela Kelly Couture label by Stella McLaren, is still in rotation despite a four year gap since we saw it worn last. 
On Monday, the Japanese Emperor and Empress traveled to Kyoto. Empress Michicko wore a new oyster grey saucer with ivory windowpane lattice crin underbrim and a looped double bow (see the hat in better detail here)
On Tuesday, Princess Kako visited the Musashino Imperial Mausoleum in Hachioji, Tokyo, in a black silk covered bowler hat.
Also on Tuesday, Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko visited the mausoleum of Emperor Jimmu in Kashihara as part of the rites in preparation for the emperor’s upcoming abdication. Empress Michiko wore a new lilac undertoned grey hat that seems standard but on closer look, shows exquisite details of a beautifully molded raised edge saucer shape, crin underbrim and silk bow. 
On Thursday, the Imperial couple returned to Tokyo, the Empress in a repeated blue-grey saucer with elegantly streamlined silk bow trim. You’ll notice it’s a lighter hued twin of the hat she wore on Tuesday.
Princess Hisako was in Yokohama yesterday to open the 83rd annual meeting of the Japanese Circulation (cardiovascular) Society. To deliver her opening address on the importance of heart disease prevention, she wore a white shallow crowned hat with saddle brim brimmed with a wide ruched green hatband.
The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:
Stunning navy velvet felt trilby with twist and feather by British milliner Rachel Trevor Morgan
Black and purple iridescent large disc hat with silk & straw twists from UK brand Rebecca Couture Millinery
Bold and jade straw percher with fun silk abaca lilies by Aussie brand Melissa Gaye Millinery
Swirling blue and black quill headpiece with black stars from British milliner Sarah Cant
Lovely pleats around the back brim of this ivory straw design from UK milliner Rae Oakley
Fantastic metallic sheen on this black & gold looped silk bandeau by Australian brand Polly and Peaches
Adore the silk orchid trim on this monochrome blue straw saucer by UK brand Hostie Hats
For our dear gents, this very dapper beaver felt fedora in a delicious colour (the milliner calls is black
cherry)
with black silk paisley hatband and brim binding from Danish brand Hornskov København
Wonderful use of abaca silk on this vibrant turquoise & green button percher by Dutch milliner Wies Mauduit
Dramatic red feather and floral headpiece from British milliner Edwina Ibbotson we’ll surely see at Ascot

And from London-based Turkish milliner Merve Bayindir, this whimsical and very fun black straw disc with multi-coloured tiles, flowers and curling black quills.

The Prince of Wales and Peter the blue iguana seemed delighted to make mutual acquaintance on Thursday in the Cayman Islands
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Some diplomatic dressing by young Princess Gabriella this week during the Chinese state visit to Monaco.
The Duke of Sussex has developed a special relationship over several encounters with an Australian fan and brightened her 99th birthday yesterday with a lovely greeting
We end this week with some great (and perplexing) formal looks at the annual Rose Ball in Monaco tonight- my favourite is Beatrice Borromeo Casiraghi’s Dior gown. Breathtaking.
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Photos from Rex/Shutterstock; social media and Getty as indicated 

This Week’s Extras

On Monday, the Akishinos visited the Imperial Musashino Cemetery in Hachioji. Princess Kiko wore a black silk bumper hat.
Prince Charles in a white kippah on Tuesday for a visit to the Nidhe Israel synagogue in Bridgetown, Barbados
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On Wednesday, a concert by music university graduates held at the Imperial Palace was enjoyed by several members of the Japanese royal family. Crown Princess Masako and Princess Kiko repeated bumper hats in oyster beige and pale blue; Princess Mako wore a navy cuffed calot with pointed sides and Princess Kako, a pale blue silk bowler hat. Princess Akiko repeated a pistachio green brimmed hat and Princess Yoko, a black design with square crown and short kettle brim edged in trim.


Yesterday, Queen Mathilde attended the funeral of Cardinal Godfried Danneels in her black calot wrapped in overlaid wide stripes of textured black woven fabric and trimmed with a large looped rosette on the side.
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During this week’s Danish state visit to Argentina, Crown Prince Frederik gained a bird’s eye view of a wind farm development (wind turbines from designed and built by a Danish company) near the city of Bahia Blanca. The Danish monarchy also shared photographs taken in northern Argentina after the official visit that show Queen Margrethe in what looks like a new, flat crowned, red brimmed hat 


Congratulations to Princess Kako who is graduating from the International Christian University in Tokyo. She took part in the graduation ceremony yesterday  in a gown and mortarboard hat.
Casual hats for Peter Phillips and Princess Anne today, cheering on Zara Tindall who is competing at the Gatcombe Horse Trials held on the grounds of Princess Anne’s estate.
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The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:
Statement gold freeform percher with butterflies by New York brand Suzanne Couture Millinery
Purple feather covered pillbox percher from Melbourne brand Jill & Jack Millinery
Sharp stylized cream felt trilby with black floral trim from Russian milliner Denis Gulyaev
Adore the colour contrast on this large copper straw disk with blue feathers from Irish milliner Aiofe Harrison
Vibrant purple straw button percher with pink flower and feather spray from US brand Fascinate Designs
Wonderful vintage print on this navy and cream pillbox by Australian milliner Chris Mullane
Blush straw saucer with light-as-air tulle pompom trim from British milliner Sarah Cant
Sculptural and beautifully draped red felt headpiece from American brand ChuChu NY
For our dear gents, this very elegant black beaver felt fedora from Danish brand Hornskov København
In a time when the need for recycling only increases in importance, Kenya-based milliner Chloe Mitchell
trimmed this charming ecru and grey floral embellished percher entirely out of felt scraps

And from British milliner Marisa Groom, this cream straw beret percher with ivory, ecru and pink organza ruffles.

Those sweet royal twins in Monaco don’t miss a holiday, do they?! So sweet

Photos from Getty and social media as indicated