Ascot 2023 Day 1: The Gloucesters

The royal party was rounded out on the first day of Royal Ascot with the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester. The Duke repeated his black antique silk top hat. The Duchess debuted a lovely blue halo bandeau trimmed with darker blue feather spray. It’s another design that looked so much better in person than in these photos- the shape was so lovely on Brigitte and the colour matches were perfect between the dress and bandeau base and darker collar and hat trim.

Designer: unknown. 
Previously Worn: 

Images from Getty as indicated  

May Garden Parties

We have four garden parties, three in London and one in Ireland, to review!

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The first one on May 9, 2023 at Buckingham Palace was attended by the Prince and Princess of Wales, Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, the Princess Royal, and the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester. The Prince of Wales wore his black antique silk top hat.

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The Princess of Wales repeated her pale blue sinamay saucer sidesweeping oval saucer hat trimmed with silk flowers beneath the raised side of the brim.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Blouse and skirt by Elie Saab
Previously Worn: June 18, 2019

The Duke of Edinburgh wore his gleaming black antique silk top hat.

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The Duchess of Edinburgh repeated her denim blue sinamay saucer hat with matching inverted crin binding, crin ruffle and silk flowers.

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Designer: bespoke version of “Karya” design by Jane Taylor. Dress by Suzannah London.
Previously Worn: June 15, 2022

Princess Anne repeated an almond sinamay cloche hat with diagonal crown. The brim features a contrasting chocolate straw underbrim and and tall wrap around the crown over which sits a ruched chocolate raw silk hatband. A mass of cream and dotted pheasant feathers on the side complete the design.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: June 18, 2019Jul 10, 2018Jun 10, 2016May 20, 2016; Jun 19, 2015Nov 19, 2007Jun 2006

The Duke of Gloucester also wore a black top hat while the Duchess wore a warm brown sinamay hat with raised brim on one side. Based on the hat’s binding, it looks like an off-the-peg design.

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Designer: unknown. Dress by Max Mara.
Previously Worn: I believe this hat is new

On May 16, the Duchess of Edinburgh attended the the Not Forgotten Association Annual Garden Party at Buckingham Palace.

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For this event, she repeated a swirled saucer percher hat in pale blue-grey straw trimmed with crin flowers in the same colour.

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Designer: “Heliconia” by Jane Taylor. Coat dress by Suzanna London.
Previously Worn: Sep 29, 2017 

On Wednesday, May 24, The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester and Prince Michael of Kent attended the Royal Kennel Club Garden Party at Buckingham Palace.

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The Duke of Gloucester wore a Panama hat while the Duchess topped her navy Max Mara dress with a new brimmed hat in navy sinamay with large fabric leaves.

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Also on May 24, King Charles and Queen Camilla attended a garden party at Hillsborough Castle while on their visit to Northern Ireland. Queen Camilla repeated a cream straw with hat angular crown and gently sidesweeping brim. This design is simply trimmed with a monochrome cream silk padded hatband.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress and coat by Bruce Oldfield.
Previously Worn: Jun 15, 2022; May 11, 2021

Images from Getty as indicated 

The Coronation: The Working British Royal Family

Full time working members of the British royal family featured prominently at Saturday’s coronation, no doubt in recognition for the considerable support they provide the monarchy.

 

 

The Prince of Wales wore the deep blue velvet mantle and gold collar of the Royal Order of the Garter over the ceremonial dress uniform of the Welsh guards, complete with cap.

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The Princess of Wales wore a bespoke white silk gown embroidered in roses, thistles, daffodils and shamrocks beneath the deep blue and scarlet robes and gold collar awarded her as Dame Grand Cross of the Royal Victorian Order (GCVO). Her halo bandeau headpiece is made of silk flowers and leaves embroidered in silver bullion and crystal which, according to Vogue, is a “nod to… the Green Man. An ancient figure from British folklore, the Green Man symbolizes spring and rebirth. He wears a crown of oak, ivy, and hawthorn, and the emblematic flowers.”

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It feels like a modern take on a tiara- the shape and scale certainly follows that of a traditional tiara while the embroidered leaves and flowers gives the piece the most intricate dimension and a decidedly contemporary feel. The collaboration of milliner and designer created a piece (and Charlotte’s mini version) that are exquisite and impeccably made,  and will undoubtedly, stand the test of time.

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Designer: Jess Collett and Alexander McQueen. Dress and cape Alexander McQueen.

As one of four Pages of Honour for the king, Prince George wore a knee-length scarlet coat with gold trimmings over an ivory satin waistcoat, and white silk shirt with jabot. Originally made by Ede and Ravenscroft during Queen Elizabeth’s reign, these items were tailored for this coronation. Instead of traditional breeches and stockings, the pages wore more modern black naval trousers.

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Princess Charlotte dazzled in a scaled down version of her mother’s ensemble, a white silk dress with pleated cape embroidered with the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock quartet of United Kingdom national flowers. Her headpiece featured the same beautifully delicate embroidered leaves and flowers as those on her mum’s, scaled down perfectly for her.

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Designer: Jess Collett and Alexander McQueen. Dress and cape Alexander McQueen.

Concluding the Wales children’s patriotic red, white and blue ensembles was Prince Louis in a navy Hainsworth Garter Blue Doeskin Tunic and black pants with Garter Blue Stripe.

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The Duke of Edinburgh wore the Order of the Garter regalia, including black velvet hat with white ostrich plume.

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The Duchess of Edinburgh wore Grand Cross Mantles of the Royal Victorian Order atop a spectacular gown embroidered with British meadow flowers. Her gown was inspired by the1953 coronation regalia and gown worn by Queen Elizabeth II and also the incredible work of ceramic artist Rachel Dein. Made by British label Suzannah London, the gown was embroidered by master embroiderer Jenny King.

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Sophie wore a headpiece of “Hand made satin leaves set on a headband and encrusted with Swarovski crystals, to match the lace by @jennykingembroidery on the gown made by @suzannahlondon Silver plated snowdrops cast in English silver especially made for this bespoke piece. Silver work by @eilyoconnelljewellery.” Credit is also due to British master flower maker Svetlana Faulkner, who made all of the white silk petal leaves on this design. The movement, circling around Sophie’s head, is so striking.

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Designer: Svetlana Faulkner (PresentPerfect Creations)  and Eily O Connell for Jane Taylor. Gown by Suzannah London with lace by Jenny King Embroidery.

Lady Louise Windsor wore a soft periwinkle saucer hat with windowpane brim, trimmed with curled bows. It is the first wide brimmed hat we have seen on her and together with her floral dress, it makes such a lovely ensemble.

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Designer: “Pomona” by Jane Taylor. Dress by Suzannah London
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Earl of Wessex donned a black top hat for the first time for the carriage ride back to Buckingham Palace.

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The Princess Royal arrived at Westminster Abbey in the uniform of her rank of Colonel of the Blues and Royals, with black bicorn hat trimmed with a scarlet vertical feather. Atop this she wore the dark green Order of the Thistle Mantle and gold collar, and Garter Sash, Garter Star, Thistle Star, GCVO Star, KCVO Star and Companion of the Order of the Bath decorations.

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Princess Anne explained her role in the procession back to Buckingham Palace recently during an interview with the Canadian Broadcasting Company“I have a role as the Colonel of the Blues and Royals in the Household Cavalry regiment as Gold Stick. And Gold Stick was the original close protection officer. So that is a role I was asked if I’d like to do for this coronation, so I said yes. Not least of all, it solves my dress problem.”  Indeed!

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Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence wore the uniform and cap of his naval rank.

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The Duke of Kent wore the mantle and collar of the Royal Order of the Garter while his sister, Princess Alexandra, wore the Grand Cross Mantles and collar of the Royal Victorian Order.

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The Duke of Gloucester wore the black velvet hat with white ostrich plume of the Order of the Garter (along with the Garter mantle and gold collar). Duchess of Gloucester wore a white silk bandeau headpiece trimmed in white cut feathers and a bow at the side. Like the Princess of Wales, Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Alexandra, she wore a white gown beneath the Grand Cross Mantles and collar of the Royal Victorian Order.

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Designer of the Duchess’ headpiece: unknown

There was clearly a communicated dress code for the royal women (excluding Princess Anne in her unique role) and the unity of white gowns and headpieces (again, with one exception) made a striking group.

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Images from Getty as indicated 

Buckingham Palace Garden Party

The first garden party of the season (and the first during King Charles III’s reign!) was held yesterday at Buckingham Palace.

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The king wore his black antique silk covered top hat.

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Queen Camilla repeated a navy sinamay hat with angular crown trimmed with navy lace, sidesweep brim and double white silk covered hatband knotted into a wired flying bow on the side.

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The hat, on it’s own, is great. The lace applique on the crown is unique and therefore notable. However, the combination of hat with high-contrast striped coat somehow doesn’t work for me.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress and coat by Bruce Oldfield.
Previously Worn: Apr 14, 2022

The Duke of Edinburgh repeated his gleaming black antique silk top hat while the duchess repeated her hat from Trooping the Colour last year, a pink and ivory design described by the designer as “a bespoke hand dyed, two tone style disc, trimmed with bows.”

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I really like the saucer shape on Sophie well and the the brim extension, in  transparent pink windowpane sinamay, gives the loveliest lightness and lift to the design. On its first outing, I didn’t like the bows but even they are growing on me here. The contrast of free, whimsical bows with her structured coat dress works is charming for this kind of event.

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Designer: Jane Taylor. Coat dress by Suzannah London.
Previously Worn: June 2, 2022

The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester made up the royal group, the duke in his antique silk covered top hat and the duchess repeating her sky blue sinamay hat with wide pleated brim upfolded to a wide cuff around the edge.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: June 13, 2022;  Jun 3, 2022 March 29, 2022

The first garden party always kicks off the summer season and this one was no exception (also kicking off coronation week!) What do you think about the hats at this event?

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Images from Getty as indicated 

This Week’s Extras

Last weekend, Princess Yoko wore an ivory silk covered bowler for a visit to Yasukuni Shrine. On April 29, Princess Hanako wore a wonderful yellow hat for an award ceremony at Ueno Royal Museum.

On Tuesday, The Duke of Gloucester took part in Anzac Day commemoration in a black bowler hat.

Also on Tuesday, Princess Amalia attended the Seville Fair in a red floral headpiece.

There have been rave reviews for the “Hats Made Me” millinery exhibition that opened this week at the Stockwood Discovery Center in Luton, the millinery manufacturing center of the UK. If you’ll be in the UK between now and December, don’t miss it.

The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week (see the comments for more):


A very pretty new portrait of Princess Yoko of Mikasa was released this week

 

Princess Alexandra’s veil is absolutely beautiful! We’ll look at today’s religious ceremony in depth on Monday.

Images from social media as indicated