Guest Post: Cultural Millinery Part 2

It’s lovely to welcome reader Sandra, who hails from New Zealand, back to Royal Hats again with the second of a 3-part series on the cultural side of royal millinery.  Over to you, Sandra!

It’s impossible to refuse ceremonial bits and pieces from your hosts and Queen Elizabeth, with all the Commonwealth at her feet, has probably donned more than most – head-dresses, necklaces, cloaks, etc. The rather charming, and restrained, head-dress of beautifully perfumed stephanotis flowers was worn in Tuvalu, in the Pacific, in 1982, while the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge were equally feted on their visit in 2012.

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Fascinatingly, it was a royal headdress of South Pacific origin that received much attention at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953. Queen Salote of Tonga attended the event in a tall woven headpiece of pandanus leaves and feathers. 

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Queen Salote, who was an imposing 6’ 3” herself (and a good friend of Queen Elizabeth), became a hit with the British press when she rode – and smiled – her way through a London downpour in an open carriage, refusing to raise the roof (history doesn’t record the thoughts of her carriage partner, the Sultan of Kelantan). She became a household name overnight with babies christened Charlotte (Salote), a racehorse named after her and songs penned in her honour, including: “Linger longer, Queen of Tonga” (which requires the English hard ‘g’ mispronunciation of Tonga to work). 

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Being received by indigenous people and inaugurated into their society is an honour that has been regularly accorded members of the British Royal family. The Prince of Wales, Prince Edward, was invested with the title of Chief Morning Star by the Stony Creek tribe (now known as the Saik’uz First Nation)  in Western Canada and sat for a 1930s portrait in his Chief’s headdress. 

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Here’s Prince Charles being inducted as Chief Red Crow of the Blackfeet Nation during a visit to Canada in 1977.

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Also in Papua New Guinea in 1984:

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And in the Iwokrama Rainforest of Guyana, South America, in 2000

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Diana, Princess of Wales, donned the cap of the Chitrali Scouts (a Frontier division of the Pakistani Army), on a visit to Peshawar, Pakistan in 1991. The soft, woolen Chitrali cap, or pakol, is widely worn by men in northern Pakistan. The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge each wore the same type of cap when they visited Chitral in 2019.

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Twenty-five years after Diana’s visit to Pakistan, her son Prince Harry visited Nepal where he wore a cotton Topi, part of the Nepalese national dress, while in another community where he spent the night with a Gurkha family, he was given a cotton pheta turban and made honorary village head.

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Thank you, Sandra. This reminds me of a 2015 article in the New York Times by Cherokee academic and activist Adrienne Keene who wrote, “For the communities that wear these headdresses, they represent respect, power and responsibility. The headdress has to be earned, gifted to a leader in whom the community has placed their trust.” Thus, the invitation for a royal to wear an indigenous headdresses is clearly one of meaning, honor and great significance. 

Stay tuned tomorrow for Sandra’s third and final installment in this series.

Monday Multiples: Queen Maxima Orange Slice

As Canadian readers enjoy Thanksgiving today, we’re looking at a seasonally-fitting hat in warm orange straw. Queen Máxima has paired this burnt sienna design with sidesweeping brim by Fabienne Delvigne with three ensembles so far:

Look #1: With a belted suede jacket and orange silk crepe gown worn for Prinsjesdag in The Hague on September 20, 2005

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Look #2: With the same suede jacket and multicoloured floral silk dress worn on April 30, 2006 in Stockholm for King Carl Gustaf’s 60th birthday celebration.

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Look #3: With a chocolate, cream, lime and orange silk twill striped dress by Jan Taminau worn October 17, 2019 in Kochi, India

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Which look do you think works best with this hat?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Inventory: Grand Duchess Maria Teresa’s Purple Hats

Today, the Luxembourg royal family celebrates 20 years since Grand Duke Henri’s accession to the Grand Ducal throne. To celebrate this milestone, we’re diving into Grand Duchess Maria Teresa’s closet  to look at her purple hats:

1.  2.   
Designer: unknown; Fabienne Delvigne
Introduced: June 23, 2001; April 15, 2010 

3. 4. 5.
Designer: unknown; Philip Treacy; Philip Treacy
Introduced: March 21, 2012; June 23, 2013; June 23, 2018

For one who wears just two or three hats a year, this is an eclectic mix! Maria Teresa doesn’t shy away from dramatic shapes and while I appreciate the creativity of #2 and the bold statement of #4, I wonder if they don’t overwhelm a little.

Which purple hats in the Grand Duchess’ hat closet are your favourites?

Photos from Reuter Raymond/Sygma, Julian Parker/UK Press via Getty; Corbis; Corbis; Catholic Church of Luxembourg

Monday Multiples: Princess Hisako

Princess Hisako has a lovely black floral suit that she has paired with numerous hats:

Look #1: With an ecru domed crown hat with short kettle brim with black hatband worn for a September 9, 2015 visit to a Red Cross sponsored nursery in Obihiro

Look #2: With a textured straw black saucer hat with raised pyramid center worn July 27,2017 for an international calligraphy exhibition in Tokyo

Look #3: Black hat with pork pie crown and white crin brim overlay trimmed with white hatband tied in a back bow with black posy worn May 25, 2019 to an African Festival in Yokohama

 

Look #4:  In a green hat with green crin brim overlay and black hatband for an August 28, 2019 visit to “Green Gables” on Prince Edward Island in Canada

Look #5: With a black straw hat with wide striped hatband, back bow, and ecru pinstripe around the brim edge worn September 24, 2019 for the 2019 Japan Sports Masters Tournament

Which hat do you prefer most with this suit?

Photos from  Hokkaido News; Sankei; TICAD; Kenyan Ministry of Sports, Culture & Heritage; The Hon. Wayne Easter, MP; and Gifu News  

Inventory: Princess Stéphanie’s Pink Hats

Since joining the Grand Ducal family nearly eight years ago, the Hereditary Grand Duchess has stepped out in several pink hats:

1.  2. 3.
Designer: unknown; Sylvia Martinez; Sylvia Martinez
Introduced: June 23, 2014; June 23, 2017; June 23, 2018

 4.  5. 
Designer: both are Sylvia Martinez
Introduced: June 23, 2019October  16, 2019  

Some of you may remember back in 2016, Spanish-born, France-based milliner Sylvia Martinez participated in an exhibition attended by Prince Guillaume and Princess Stéphanie. Sylvia took the opportunity to create two custom hats for the Grand Duchess and Hereditary Grand Duchess that she presented at this meeting. Stéphanie wore the hat designed for her in May 2017 (the hat designed for the Grand Duchess is the marvelous #5), kicking off an ongoing collaboration with Sylvia  that includes four of the pieces seen above. While I do like to see royals try designs from different milliners, Sylvia’s beautifully detailed work has helped Stéphanie find her own millinery style- she really shines in those bright pink perchers, doesn’t she?

Which pink hats in Princess Stéphanie hat closet are your favourites?

Photos from  Mark Rendersvia Getty; Catholic Church of Luxembourg; Catholic Church of Luxembourg; Patrick van Katwijk and Olivier Matthys/WireImage via Getty