Royal Ascot Day 1: Queen Elizabeth

I’m so pleased to be joined for a look at all the royal hats worn to Ascot today by Toronto-based milliner Jay Cheng, creator of Jaycow Millinery.

AND WE’RE OFF! Queen Elizabeth wore a new hat for the first day of Royal Ascot today covered in the same pale blue crepe as her coat. The stepped brim has a sharp, pinched upturn on one side and is lavishly trimmed by velvet and silk flowers in varying shades of blue and purple and moss green velvet leaves.

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Royal Hats: The colour is lovely on Her Majesty and the sharply upturned brim on the side is a unique, creative, and interesting detail. It’s also good to see a glimpse of the Queen’s dress- this helps make sense of the hat’s floral trim and I really like the contrast that moody, deeper blues and purples provide against the paler blue. I’m less sure about the stepped brim shape on the lowered side of the hat, which seems a bit awkward, and the floral trim. Velvet leaves and flowers on hats give them an antique feel that I’m not sure works with this hat’s more modern shape. Even so, I can’t think of anyone other than the Queen who could pull this hat off so well!

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Jay ChengSuch a whimsical shade for Her Majesty. As always, the blue speaks royalty. The vintage style floral trim is a contrast when paired with the swept up pointed detail- a detail not seen on Her Majesty before. When you see the whole look, the floral fabric of Her Majesty’s dress makes sense of the color combination and the mix of different hues of blue.

Though the floral trim is made beautifully, I am still not sure if it is be best trim for this hat. The direction of the hat is quite modern, compared to the hat styles Her Majesty has showcased before. I really fell in love with the detail of the brim and the stepped brim works perfectly for the trimming to nest on.

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Royal Hats: Good point! You’re helping me come around on that brim shape.

Jay Cheng: Overall, I quite enjoyed the contemporary feel that Her Majesty is taking on. Well done darling!

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Designer: Angela Kelly, made by Stella McLaren. Dress and coat by Angela Kelly.
Previously Worn: This hat is new

What do you think of Queen Elizabeth’s new hat today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

 

Welcoming Guest Milliners For Royal Ascot

For each day of Royal Ascot this year, I will be joined by a special guest- one of the milliners whose work we have admired in our weekly “Extras” posts. From five different countries, I’m humbly honoured to welcome these five gifted couture milliners here to Royal Hats over the next five days to chat about all the royal hats we see at the races this year. Here is an introduction to these five lovely people that you’ll get to know more this week- click on any of the photos or logos to jump over to each milliner’s website to see more of their great work:

Internationally acclaimed milliner Jay Cheng is known both for her playful innovation and her meticulous craftsmanship. Since beginning her career in Fashion and Design in Hong Kong over 25 years ago, Jay has produced countless editorials and runway shows, and executed a wide range of costume, wardrobe, and styling for film, television, print, commercial, and live performances.

Jay fell in love with the art of Millinery and in 2004 began Jaycow Millinery. Since then she has created hundreds of bespoke pieces. Her international clientele include private hat- lovers, brides, costume designers, and renowned celebrities. Drawing on her background as a creative producer, Jay has an instinct for bringing out the unique personality, flair and poetics of an individual through her millinery creations. A rebel by nature, Jay’s design never ceases to challenge and surprise, yet each piece also demonstrates her profound respect for traditional craftsmanship. She has traveled the world honing her craft, and counts many of today’s millinery masters as her friends, teachers, and colleagues.

Today, Jay brings her unique style and design to Canada with her first ready to wear collection, Block Common, launching in the Fall of 2019. Mixing and matching her extensive collection of over 400 hat blocks from all over the world to create democratic shapes that break the rules and reveal the multiplicity of character. Known for special occasion custom pieces, Jaycow Millinery will take the same expert skill and hand make a collection of hats for everyday wear. Block Common is Jay’s fresh and contemporary take on popular common hat blocks from throughout the 20th century.

A highlight of her success has been being able to become a teacher of the millinery arts, Jaycow has been invited to run workshops and masterclasses in cities such as: Hong Kong, New York, London, Los Angeles, San Diego, Shanghai, and Toronto. Jay is currently based in Toronto and lives with her photographer husband,  2 sons, and 2 pups.


 

 

 

Wies Mauduit attended the Charles Montaigne Fashion Academy in Amsterdam (now the Amsterdam Fashion Institute), where she learned the basic skills of hat designing and millinery as part of the Haute Couture curriculum.

Subsequently she worked in Paris for 24 years, first at the milliners Jean Barthet where she completed her training. The House Barthet produced hats for the collections of well-known fashion designers such as Chanel, Emmanuel Ungaro, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Claude Montana and Sonia Rykiel. She then worked for nineteen years at the Comédie Française, the French National Theatre which has its own costume department, where she was responsible for the millinery workshop.

Wies moved back to the Netherlands in 2007 with her (French) husband and three children and settled with her family in the region of The Hague. In April 2015, she started her own millinery business under the name of La plus belle ! designing one off, bespoke hats.

Wies is a member of the board of the Dutch Hat Association (Nederlandse Hoeden Vereniging) and a regular contributor to Hatlines Magazine.

   

 

Ellie Vallerini is a couture milliner based in the beautiful British seaside town of Hastings where she makes elegant hats and headdresses perfect for weddings, races and events. Ellie’s designs show her love of colour, simplicity and style. Using traditional millinery techniques and a variety of materials, she makes each hat by hand creating an object of beauty and exquisite craftsmanship which, Ellie believes, adds to the magic of wearing a couture hat.

After gaining a BA Hons in Contemporary Crafts, Ellie moved to London to pursue her hat making ambition. She was awarded a Distinction in Millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College and won the Fashion and Textiles prize for the V&A’s ‘Inspired by’ in 2011.

Ellie went on to hone her skills through internships with renowned milliners such as Edwina Ibottson before being offered a post as Designer/Maker for Royal Milliner John Boyd. Over the next six years she developed her millinery skills and enjoyed working closely with individual clients at the Knightsbridge atelier, designing the perfect hat for each customer to look and feel fabulous.

In addition to designing and making her own range of couture hats, Ellie regularly makes commissions for the stage and some of London’s top attractions. She has collaborated with many external projects including national and charity events, music videos, fashion shows and photoshoots.

 

    

Lauren Ritchie discovered her passion for Millinery when she attended a short course in Millinery at Riverina Institute of TAFE in Albury during her final year of High School. She moved to Melbourne to complete her tertiary studies completing Bachelor of Applied Science – Fashion Design at RMIT and Certificate II, III & IV in Millinery at Kangan Batman Institute under Paris Kyne and Serena Lindeman. Working for Louise Macdonald, a well-respected Melbourne Milliner from 2011-2017, Lauren spent time in 2018 working for Jane Taylor London and Edwina Ibbotson Millinery in London.

Lauren has created pieces for Competitions around the world including MIMC, Parkins Fabric, Hatalk, MAA Design Award and invited to take part in the Flemington Oaks Day Millinery Award.  Her pieces have featured in many theatre and film productions including, Foxtel’s Picnic at Hanging Rock and cloches for the Miss Fisher Murder Mysteries on the ABC. Currently an Editor of The Hat Magazine and Hatlines, Lauren contributes to the global hat industry with her writing and produces the podcast series for Millinery.Info.

Note from Royal Hats: Lauren’s white mini boater with purple striped ribbon trim, shown in her profile photo above, was one of the hats that caught my eye on Day 3 (Ladies’ Day) of Ascot last year!

 

 

Spanish born Rafa Peinador’s work drew considerable attention earlier this month as part of the Millinery Show at the College of Kensington and Chelsey. He writes, “I went to university to study advertising and marketing and worked for more than ten years in advertising. I became interested in jewellery making with unusual materials like paper, fabric, ribbons… and for a couple of years I taught jewellery design and making in an arts college. The big move happened when I landed in London with my partner, a few years of office work awoke my creativity again and after we adopted our son I decided to stay at home to support him. Starting my own business, allowed me to dedicate time to my children and to create bespoke and unique brooches and jewellery. A couple of years ago, my friend Rosalind asked me if I wanted to do a millinery course with her before she and her family moved back to Australia and my journey throughout millinery started. After a few weeks I was completely hooked, my life was changed and it was clear to me that I wanted to pursue a care as a milliner. The freedom, the creativity, the craftsmanship, and also the possibility to apply all my designer background and my previous knowledge about materials has made my journey an amazing adventure.”

 

 

Welcome to Royal Hats, all of you! I so look forward to learning from your immense millinery knowledge, expertise and experience as we chat about hats this week!

Photo credits: Franklin Lau; Kim Strobos; David Merewether; Beth Moseley; Lee Sanders; and Adrian Perlinski. Photos may not be reproduced without written consent.

Order Of The Garter 2019

Founded by Edward III in 1348, The Order of the Garter is the senior and oldest British Order of Chivalry awarded at the Sovereign’s pleasure as a personal gift. Twenty four recipients of the order, known each as a Knight or Lady,  meet each year for a grand ceremony held int St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle on the Monday before Royal Ascot begins.

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Members of the Garter wear elaborate robes and accessories for the Garter Service including a special hat. The hat, in the style of a Tudor bonnet, is made of black velvet with a voluminous, unstructured crown and flat brim. It is trimmed with the order insignia, white ostrich and black heron feathers, and slim cord wrapped around the base of the crown that extends to a pair of gold and royal blue tassels hanging down the side. British royal family members belonging to the order include Queen Elizabeth, who is Sovereign of the Garter, The Prince of Wales, Duke of Cambridge, Duke of York, Earl of Wessex, Princess Royal, Duke of Gloucester, Duke of Kent and Princess Alexandra. The Duke of Edinburgh, who is also a member, did not attend the service today.

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King Willem Alexander of the Netherlands and King Philippe of Spain were appointed as Supernumerary Knights of the Garter during state visits to the UK in 2018 and 2017; their attendance at today’s ceremony saw them officially installed in these roles and they wore the full garter regalia.

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Queen Máxima wore a tall, verical saucer hat in dusky pink straw trimmed with a mass of silk flowers and curling pheasant feathers on the underside of the raised brim.

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It’s a great look for the Dutch Queen. I really the slightly darker shade of pink on the hat and adore how its lines and lush trimming play so well off Máxima’s sleek caped coat dress- the pairing of the two items is fantastic. I’d like, however to change two things about the hat- first is the angle of placement on the head (tilt the top edge down a bit so it sweeps slightly more diagonally that so vertical) and the second is to tidy up the brim binding edge. Tweak these two things and a great hat would become a complete knockout.

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Designer: unconfirmed. My guess is Fabienne Delvigne. Dress by Claes Iversen.
Previously Worn: This hat is new. Some suggest it is a reworked version of this Prinsjesdag hat but the straw bases are different shapes and colours.

Queen Letizia wore a kokoshnik-style bandeau headpiece in formed black straw, trimmed with black feathers and veil. It’s the first headpiece in this style we’ve seen on the Spanish queen and it suits her petite frame so well (not leaving the hat looking like it’s wearing her, as unfortunately is often the case). With her black and white printed dress, the headpiece tops an elegant ensemble that’s fantastic on Letizia.

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Designer: It is the “Black Peony” design from Spanish brand Cherubina
Previously Worn: this headpiece is new

The Duchess of Cornwall repeated a hat in almond straw with off-center, peaked crown and side sweeping brim. A beaded straw hatband and side twists studded with ecru silk flowers complete the design. The beaded embellishment on the hatband and side twists add a subtle but welcome bit of sparkle to the design and while the colour is quiet, the scale and style make a great signature look for Camilla.

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Designer: Philip Treacy
Previously Worn: June 19, 2018

The Duchess of Cambridge repeated a black sinamay hat with upturned flyaway brim in windowpane lattice straw, trimmed with a curled black an ostrich feather. The brim shape on this piece gives the design a wonderfully light and airy feel and the hat was beautifully paired with Kate’s white coat dress with black trim.

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Designer: Silvia Fletcher for Lock & Co. It is the Lion Tamer design. Coat dress by Catherine Walker.
Previously Worn: July 1, 2016June 11, 2011

The Countess of Wessex repeated her natural straw saucer hat with lattice open woven brim  trimmed with a large coral feathers and tan twists. The hat’s shape, reminiscent of Dior hats in the 1950s, pairs so well with her full skirted ensemble. Bright coral is not an easy hue to wear and this ensemble is beautifully balanced between the vibrant skirt and the hat’s feathers.

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Designer: Jane Taylor
Previously Worn: May 15, 2018 (it was also your favourite repeated royal hat in 2018!);  Oct 5, 2017June 20, 2017 i

The Duchess of Gloucester repeated her slate grey straw veiled pillbox hat. It’s a quietly classic design we’ve seen on Brigitte more than a few times but one she wears well.

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: June 18, 2018May 19, 2018Jun 17, 2017Jun 1, 2017Jul 1, 2016Jun 12, 2016Jun 10, 2016

Zenouska Mowatt, on the far left below, topped her blue and yellow patterned dress with a navy silk bandeau trimmed with a folded silk bow.


 

Designer: Laura Cathcart’s Arizona hatband
Previously Worn: this headpiece is new

The Order of the Garter service this year brought us a wonderful parade of hats to kick off Ascot week with a fanfare. What do you think of these hats in Windsor today? Which designs stand out most to you?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

Danish Royals Celebrate National Flag

According to legend, the Danish flag, Dannebrog, fell from the sky during the Battle of Volmerslaget in Estonia on June 15,  1219, providing Danish soldiers, led by King Valdemar II, strength to persevere to victory. Today, on the  800th anniversary of this event, members of the Danish royal family took part in celebrations for this popular, well-loved national symbol. Queen Margrethe arrived in Tallin, Estonia, aboard the royal yacht Dannebrog this morning in her repeated red bumper hat with side bow in the same navy and red painterly print as her dress.

Designer: likely Per Falk Hansen
Previously Worn: May 5, 2018July 1, 2017June 29, 2017June 1, 2017Oct 4, 2016Sep 5, 2016May 24, 2016

Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary attended celebrations in Vordingborg, Denmark’s medieval capital and location of King Valdemar II’s castle (now just remains). The Crown Princess topped her red dress with a repeated vertical saucer hat in natural straw studded with diamanté, trimmed with large silk roses and flying coque feathers.

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This has always been a great hat on Mary- the scale is really good and the hat’s neural colour scheme comes to life paired with vibrant items such as this red dress. The mix of neutral and vibrant items from head to toe (make sure you also peek at her shoes!) makes for a polished ensemble that feels very suited to the celebratory nature of today’s events.

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Designer: Jane Taylor
Previously Worn: June 15, 2016; May 22, 2012July 2, 2011

Prince Joachim and Princess Marie attended celebrations at City Hall in Copenhagen. Princess Marie wore a new hat in a pale pink textured straw with cartwheel brim and shallow, flat crown. The design is simply trimmed with a striped natural straw bow on the side. The hat is clearly designed to sit on an angle on the head (evidenced by a base beneath the crown that sits on the head) and this angle really makes this hat work. It’s a charming design on Princess Marie.

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: This hat is new

It’s always great to see the Danish royal family all in hats to celebrate an event (even if the celebrations are in different locations!). What do you think of these Danish hats today?

Photos from Getty as indicated 

This Week’s Extras

On Tuesday, Princess Sofia paired a red silk rose bandeau from Eivy Flodin with a floral printed gown for the Polar Music Prize. With her gold chandelier earrings, it’s a lot but still a great look for her.
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Also on Tuesday, the former emperor and empress of Japan were spotted en route to Kyoto to complete the last of the abdication rituals. Empress Emerita Michiko repeated a slate grey-blue rimmed saucer with stylised bow. On Wednesday’s visit to the mausoleum of Emperor Meiji, she repeated  a grey disc with black dotted veil and on Thursday to return to Tokyo, she repeated a denim blue disc with gold backed, folded bow.
Smart hat on Princess Astrid for the arrival of the South Korean state visit on Wednesday. The jaunty upturned brim (a brim with polka dots!) suits her well
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On Wednesday, Princess Hisako and Princess Tsuguko opened a renovated hotel (the same one that housed Emperor Emeritus Akihito for a time during WWII) in Mashiko. Princess Hisako’s acid green hat has an uniquely striped crown while Princess Tsuguko’s black straw sidesweep is trimmed with a white silk flower. See more photos here and here.

Queen Silvia, who repeated a pistacchio green open-crowned pillbox trimmed with ruffled flowers on the side. Crown Princess Victoria repeated a headpiece of pale blue silk flowers and blue straw twists (trimming that I suspect originally appeared on this Philip Treacy cocktail hat). Watch a great video summary of the event here.

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Princess Beatrix in a black straw bumper hat today to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the Royal Society of Sciences in Zeeland
The following new millinery designs caught my eye this week:
Natural straw glorious wide brimmed hat with silver crown, brim binding and stitching by British milliner Sarah Cant
Magenta sidesweeping saucer in banana fibre with feathers by Dutch milliner Amélie D’Hooghvorst
Baby blue straw teardrop beret with leather flowers and feathers by British milliner Justine Bradley-Hill
Incredible white straw pyramid cnydaria sea creature with crin tentacles by Spanish-born milliner Rafa
Cheeky raspberry pink brimmed cap with bow by British brand Mind Your Bonce
Black leather hat blocked on a vintage 1950s block with beaded fringe by Australian milliner Rachel Henry
Pale pink percher with lavish cascade of silk flowers and orbiting rings by Irish milliner Carol Kennelly
Green feather bandeau with maribou poufs by British milliner Dorothy Morant
Impeccable black straw boater hat with wide monochrome stripe hatband by Dutch milliner Myra van de Korput
Raspberry pink straw percher with orchids and green burnt feathers by Irish brand Hat Couture
And for our gentlemen, this dapper black beauty from iconic British brand Lock and Co.

On Thursday, the Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall hosted a reception for the Elephant Family )an NGO protecting Asian elephants from extinction started by the Duchess’ late brother Mark) masquerade Animal Ball. Aren’t their beaded wild cat masks fantastic?!
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Beautiful photo of Prince Nicolas of Sweden, shared by his mum on the occasion of his 4th birthday today.

Photos from social media as indicated