The Coronation: The King and Queen

 

The coronation of King Charles III and Queen Camilla was celebrated today at Westminster Abbey in London.

 

 

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The king arrived at Westminster Abbey in the bright red velvet surcoat worn by his grandfather, King George VI, at his coronation in 1937. The velvet has been conserved by the Royal School of Needlework, with lining and gold lace conserved by Savile Row tailors, Ede and Ravenscroft.

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Over the surcoat, King Charles wore the Robe of State (also referred to as the Parliament Robe) with long, deep crimson velvet train adorned in Canadian ermine and gold lace. From shoulder to shoulder was the collar and badge of the Order of the Garter. In addition, he wore an embroidered white shirt, military uniform trousers and gleaming shoes with gold buckles.

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For the anointing, the robe and surcoat were removed and replaced with the Colobium Sindonis (“shroud tunic” in Latin) anointing gown  – a simply cut, unembellished open tunic in white linen. Over this was added the Imperial mantle Supertunica, a long, Byzantine-inspired gold silk coat with Girdle belt.

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For the investiture and crowning, the Imperial Mantle Robe Royal was further added. This ornately embroidered gold robe is oldest robe in the royal collection, made for King George IV’s coronation in 1821. The robe is decorated with foliage, flowers, and crowns and joins at the front with a gold eagle clasp.

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King Charles was crowned with the St. Edward’s Crown. With a 22-carat gold frame  that dates to 1661 , the St. Edward’s Crown is twelve inches tall and set with 444 precious and semi-precious gemstones including amethysts, aquamarines, garnets, peridots, rubies, sapphires, spinels, tourmalines, topazes, and zircons set in clusters surrounded by white enamel mounds shaped as acanthus leaves (and weighs a whopping five pounds!). The crown’s base is trimmed in ermine and made more comfortable with a velvet cap sewn inside. Today’s coronation is the only time the St. Edward’s Crown will be worn by the king.

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For the recessional, King Charles removed the gold Robe Royal and Supertunica along with the white linen Colobium Sindonis, replacing them with a purple and gold surcoat and the Robe of Estate of purple silk velvet  and ermine with gold embroidery worn by King George VI at his 1937 coronation. This robe was also conserved and prepared by Ede and Ravescroft.

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Additionally, the king swapped out his Garter badge for a more ornate one and donned the more familiar Imperial State Crown. Originally made by Rundell and Bridge in 1838 for the coronation of Queen Victoria, its design was based on earlier crowns dating back to the sixteenth century. Worn for occasions including the State Opening of Parliament, this crown is set with 2,868 diamonds and hundreds of pearls and other gemstones that give it serious sparkle.

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The uncut red spinel on the front, the Black Prince’s Ruby, has been part of the English royal gem collection since the 1360s and was allegedly worn by King Henry V at the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. Below the spinel is the Cullinan II Diamond, a 317 carat stone cut from the great Cullinan Diamond and added to this crown in 1909. Read an excellent history of this crown here. 

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Queen Camilla’s coronation gown was made by Bruce Oldfield. Cut from creamy white peau de soie, a silk with a matte lustre finish, the fabric was woven by Stephen Walters in Suffolk, England. The dress features a v-neck, three quarter length sleeves and Oldfield’s signature paneling through the bodice, with a modest sweep train.

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The focus of the gown is its embroidery; it is entirely covered in a festival of delicate silver and gold embroidered wildflowers including “daisy chains, forget-me-nots, celandine and scarlet pimpernel, representing the King and Queen Consorts affection for nature and the British countryside,” read a statement from Buckingham Palace. The gown’s cuffs, hem and robe straps (brilliantly cut to resemble a bolero jacket) are covered in gold embroidered roses, thistles, daffodils and shamrocks, the flowers of England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland that have featured on this coronation’s official emblem.

A deeply personal touch, the front of the skirt is embroidered in Camilla’s cypher, her dogs Bluebell and Beth, and the names of her two children and five grandchildren. Her shoes were made by British designer Elliot Zed and covered in the same silk as her gown.

For her arrival at Westminster Abbey, Queen Camilla wore the scarlet velvet Robe of State previously worn by Queen Elizabeth II.

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Queen Camilla was crowned with Queen Mary’s Coronation Crown which recently underwent alternation in preparation for this event; four arches were removed and three of the Cullinan Diamonds were added.

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Original version of Queen Mary’s Coronation Crown (l) compared to current version

Made in 1911, the crown includes more than two thousand diamonds atop a silver and gold frame.

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The renovation of Queen Mary’s Coronation Crown creates a lighter, more delicate consort’s crown that pairs perfectly with the Imperial State Crown.  It’s a slightly modern, streamlined take on a traditional crown that seems an apt metaphor for the kind of monarch King Charles III has said he wishes to be.

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All three crowns today- the St. Edward’s Crown, the Imperial State crown and Queen Mary’s Coronation crown –  were fitted by Philip Treacy, whose team also made new velvet caps of maintenance, custom fit to their new wearers.

Queen Camilla’s diamond necklace, by Garrard, was the same one worn by Queen Elizabeth at her coronation in 1953.

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For the recessional, Queen Camilla wore her own new Robe of Estate. Made by Ede and Ravenscroft in rich purple silk velvet, it was embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework based at Hampton Court Palace in west London, of which Camilla is patron. The design includes 24 different varieties of flowers and plants embroidered in gold thread including lily-of-the valley (a favorite flower of Queen Elizabeth II), lady’s mantle, myrtle, maidenhair fern, cornflowers and delphiniums, a favourite flower of the King and the flower for the month of July, the birth month of the Queen Consort. The national emblems of the rose, thistle and shamrock are included along with bees, butterflies, beetles and a caterpillar in keeping with the wildflower theme. The robe is simply magnificent.

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The king and queen returned to Buckingham Palace in the Gold State Coach, built in 1760 and used at every Coronation since that of William IV in 1831.

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The coronation ceremony was filled with incredible music, thoughtful gestures, intentional acts of inclusion and diversity and an palpable sense of tradition and reverence.  Do watch it when you have a moment.


 

Over the next days, we’ll look at all the hats and headpieces worn my royal family members and royal guests at this event.

Images from Getty as indicated 

Buckingham Palace Garden Party

The first garden party of the season (and the first during King Charles III’s reign!) was held yesterday at Buckingham Palace.

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The king wore his black antique silk covered top hat.

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Queen Camilla repeated a navy sinamay hat with angular crown trimmed with navy lace, sidesweep brim and double white silk covered hatband knotted into a wired flying bow on the side.

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The hat, on it’s own, is great. The lace applique on the crown is unique and therefore notable. However, the combination of hat with high-contrast striped coat somehow doesn’t work for me.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress and coat by Bruce Oldfield.
Previously Worn: Apr 14, 2022

The Duke of Edinburgh repeated his gleaming black antique silk top hat while the duchess repeated her hat from Trooping the Colour last year, a pink and ivory design described by the designer as “a bespoke hand dyed, two tone style disc, trimmed with bows.”

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I really like the saucer shape on Sophie well and the the brim extension, in  transparent pink windowpane sinamay, gives the loveliest lightness and lift to the design. On its first outing, I didn’t like the bows but even they are growing on me here. The contrast of free, whimsical bows with her structured coat dress works is charming for this kind of event.

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Designer: Jane Taylor. Coat dress by Suzannah London.
Previously Worn: June 2, 2022

The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester made up the royal group, the duke in his antique silk covered top hat and the duchess repeating her sky blue sinamay hat with wide pleated brim upfolded to a wide cuff around the edge.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: June 13, 2022;  Jun 3, 2022 March 29, 2022

The first garden party always kicks off the summer season and this one was no exception (also kicking off coronation week!) What do you think about the hats at this event?

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Images from Getty as indicated 

British Royals Mark Remembrance Day

On Thursday, November 10, Queen Camilla visited the 94th Field of Remembrance at Westminster Abbey in her textured black beret hat with statement green feather.
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Designer: Philip Treacy
Previously Worn: Mar 29, 2022; Nov 5, 2011May 8, 2020May 1, 2019;  May 22, 2012Nov 20, 2010Nov 14, 2010May 5, 2010Dec 14, 2009Nov 5, 2009Oct 9, 2009Dec 2, 2008Dec 14, 2007

On Friday, November 11, the Duchess of Gloucester repeated a black beret for a Service of Remembrance at the National Memorial Arboretum.

Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: Sep 19, 2022; Nov 11, 2021

On Sunday, November 13, members of the British royal family attended the National Service Of Remembrance at The Cenotaph in central London.

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Queen Camilla repeated her new black velour felt beret hat trimmed with sweeping curve of vertically placed black lace applique and birdcage veil. It’s a stunning addition to her wardrobe.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Coat by Fiona Clare. 
Previously Worn: Sep 19, 2022

The Princess of Wales wore a new streamlined felt hat with straight-sided crown and downward facing cartwheel brim. The hat is trimmed with a braid-trimmed silk hatband. The hatband’s restrained placement, simply overlapped at the back, beautifully shows off its detail and the sleek lines of the design.

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Coatdress by Catherine Walker. 
Previously Worn: This hat is new

The Countess of Wessex repeated a crepe covered calot cap with bow around the back.

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Designer: Jane Taylor “Aphrodite Headpiece in Black Crepe.” Coat by Catherine Walker
Previously Worn: Sep 12, 2022

The Duchess of Gloucester repeated a black veiled straw pillbox.

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Designer: unknown
Previously Worn: May 4, 2019; Jun 9, 2018;  Mar 19, 2013Jun 20, 2011Oct 9, 2009Jun 03, 2006

Images from Getty as indicated  

Funeral of Queen Elizabeth II: Family

The State Funeral of Queen Elizabeth II was held yesterday with services at Westminster Abbey and St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle.

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King Charles and Queen Camilla

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Designer: Philip Treacy. Dress by Fiona Clare Couture. 

The Princess Royal and Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence

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The Earl and Countess of Wessex

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Designer: Jane Taylor. Coat by Suzannah London.
The Prince and Princess of Wales

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Designer: Sean Barrett. Coatdress by Alexander McQueen.

Princess Charlotte

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Designer: Child Classic Boater in Black by Jane Taylor. Black Wool Coat by Ancar. 

The Duchess of Sussex

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Designer: Stephen Jones. Dress by Stella McCartney.

Princess Beatrice

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Designer: Mesh Pillbox Hat by Sarah Cant. Louis Vuitton dress and The Kooples jacket. 

Princess Eugenie

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Designer: ‘Alvaro’ boater by Emily London. Dress by Day Birger et Mikkelsen.

Lady Louise Windsor

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Designer: Diana Headband in Black Crepe by Jane Taylor. Dress by Theory.

Zara Tindall

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Designer: Juliette Botterill. Coat by Laura Green London.

Savannah Phillips, Isla Phillips and Mia Tindall

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Lady Sarah Chatto

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Designer: Stephen Jones

Lady Margarita Armstrong-Jones

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Designer: Rachel Trevor Morgan

 

Hats worn to the State Funeral of Queen Elizabeth: Extended British Royal Family 

Hats worn to the State Funeral of Queen Elizabeth: Royal Guests

Hats worn to the State Funeral of Queen Elizabeth: Noble and Notable Guests

Mourning Millinery

Numerous hats have been worn over the past 11 days of mourning since Queen Elizabeth’s passing:

September 10: Princess Beatrice in an embellished headband to admire flowers and tributes left outside Balmoral Castle.

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September 11:  Princess Anne wore a repeated black beret with net veil overlay and feather trim by Amy Morris-Adams for the arrival of the Queen’s coffin at Holyrood House in Edinburgh from Balmoral

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September 12: The King, The Princess Royal, Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence and the Earl of Wessex were in military uniform for the procession of The Queen’s coffin from the Palace of Holyroodhouse along the Royal Mile to St Giles’ Cathedral.

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They were joined by Queen Camilla and the Countess of Wessex.

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Queen Camilla: Repeated black straw hat with feather wrap by Philip Treacy
Countess of Wessex: Repeated black felt button percher with draped silk abacca bow by Jane Taylor. 

September 13: Princess Anne attended a prayer service at  St Giles Church and accompanied her mother’s coffin from Scotland to RAF Northolt.

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Princess Anne: Repeated silk covered pillbox with ruffled bow at the back 

Queen Camilla accompanied the King on a visit to Northern Ireland.

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Queen Camilla: Repeated straw brimmed hat with side bow by Lock & Co. 

September 14: King Charles, The Prince of Wales, The Princess Royal, the Earl of Wessex, the Duke of Gloucester  and Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence wore military uniform to follow the Queen’s coffin from Buckingham Palace to the Palace of Westminster. They were joined by the Duke of Sussex, Earl of Snowdon, Peter Philips, Duke of York and members of Queen Elizabeth’s staff.

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At the Palace of Westminster, the group was joined by the British royal family.

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Queen Camilla: New black straw hat with wrapped hatband by Philip Treacy
Princess of Wales: New Black Pillbox Halo in Crepe by Jane Taylor
Duchess of Sussex: New Black Veiled Beret Fascinator with ribbon trim by Stephen Jones
Princess Beatrice: New Waterfall Bow Band by Justine Bradley-Hill
Princess Eugenie: New ‘Galilea’ Headpiece in Black by Emily London
Countess of Wessex: New ‘Aphrodite’ Headpiece in Black Crepe by Jane Taylor
Lady Louise Windsor: New Felt Beret with Quill in Black by Whitely
Zara Tindall: New bespoke by Juliette Botterill

September 16: King Charles, The Princess Royal, the Earl of Wessex and the Duke of York stood vigil at their mother’s coffin in the Palace of Westminster.

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They were joined by members of the Royal family, the York Princesses, Duchess of Gloucester, Lady Rose Gilman, Princess Alexandra, the Countess of St. Andrews, Lady Helen Taylor and her daughters, Lady Frederick Windsor, and the Tindall and Philips families in hats/headpieces.

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Queen Camilla repeated her new black straw hat with wrapped hatband on a visit to Wales with the King.

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The Prince and Princess of Wales visited to Army Training Centre Pirbright in Guilford.

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Princess of Wales: Repeated black felt saucer with raised brim and curled trim by Lock & Co.

September 17: The Prince of Wales, The Duke of Sussex, Princess Beatrice, Princess Eugenie, Lady Louise Windsor, James, Peter Phillips and Zara Tindall stand vigil at their grandmother’s coffin in the Palace of Westminster.

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Princess Beatrice: Repeated Waterfall Bow Band by Justine Bradley-Hill
Zara Tindall: New ‘Darcey’ Black Velvet Veiled Headband (without the embellishments) by Bee Smith

Empress Masako wore bumper hats departing for and arriving in London

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September 18: Queen Silvia of Sweden and Crown Princess Marie-Chantal at the Palace of Westminster.

 

Images from Getty and social media as indicated